Four legs good, two legs bad…

Keeping up with my promise to write something once a month, as I continue to be at leisure. Decided to drift away from travel for a while, to tell you the story of my life with dogs, for it has been more than a mixed bag. I’ll hit the travel trail again soon, most likely a little piece on my adventures in Malta with my Mother. Stay tuned.

Meantime? Let us step back to, I think, 1984. Easter holidays, and my Dad (yep, here we go again) decided I should join him and a couple of his chums as they went for a ’round of golf, at the public course near Canterbury. I was cast in the role of junior caddy, and before long I found myself dragging the old man’s clubs up hill and down dale. I certainly recall what I think was the third hole, which featured the most extraordinary incline up to an elevated tee. From there one was tasked with crashing one’s ball downhill and ’round a long right-hander of a dogleg.

The rain started to fall, and my progenitor thundered his drive a mile to the right, way, way over the adjacent trees.

I’d have the pleasure, some years down the line, of playing golf alongside the old boy. Instances such as that one off the third tee were really quite common. For instance, in my late teens I watched him once lash two consecutive drives directly down a railway line at the Westgate course. Thank the good Lord there wasn’t a service heading our way. ‘Amateur Golfer Derails 9.23 from Victoria’, the Thanet Times headline would have read.

We’ll get onto dogs, but I need to conclude this discussion of my Father’s golfing prowess first. He told me once about a game he was playing with a mate of his, when aged about 17 or so. They were queued up on a tee behind an elderly pair. One of these old boys unleashed a vast fade off into the undergrowth. Clearly a three-off-the-tee situation, but the fellow was determined to retrieve his ball. “You play through” he told the younger men, and stalked off at a near right-angle, to grumpily search the thicket.

Most men would feel the pressure coming off them at times like this, but Father and I share a similar sense of our fate, and the inevitable. He popped his ball down, and arrowed a five iron out into the blue. Within fractions of a second it deviated wildly to the right, and disappeared out of view. The first clue anyone had as to how the shot and concluded and where the ball was came with a blood-curdling distant scream. Yep, you guessed it. My teenaged Father had managed to pick out a pensioner in the small of the back from 80 yards, with his target invisible to him.

An uneasy silence followed. Thoughts of the law courts. How to disguise an accidental manslaughter? Whether or not to simply just run away? Light relief came when the injured party staggered back out onto the faraway. Rubbing his spine with one hand and cradling a golf ball in the other. My Father, being a good sort, made his way down the course and talked his way out of the whole business. Happily he remained at liberty (although his golf game never improved) to then sire a Son 11 years later, who would one day become his child caddy.

Back to 1984. The ball was lost, but, frankly, it was only a matter of moments before the rain gave way to a frankly epic deluge. This was the good old days. No waterproofs or brollies, just a case of giving it a few minutes and then agreeing it was every man and boy from himself. We arrived back at the cars at closing on lunchtime, and sat inside them drying off. The men agreed that the only possible solution was to go to the pub to get over the disappointment of missing out on the golf. We repaired to Margate, to a pub owned by one of their former teaching colleagues.

On arrival, my ten-year-old self was mortified to be met with a Big Black Dog. Through infancy and the first half of childhood, I had been terrified of dogs. I found their reactions to me unreliable. I sensed they sensed my fear. I mistook doggie exuberance for aggression, particularly after a nasty scrape or two with a Great Dane as a toddler. Our neighbours had two of them, and they patrolled their ploughed back garden with unexercised menace and they towered over me whenever they got near. Used to scare the absolute bejaysus out of me.

I attempted to hide myself, but animals have always been fascinated by me. The dog I own now is eyeing me even at this moment, up as I sit at the dining room table, typing this. I took my crisps and lemonade and attempted to keep the pool table between me and BBD, as my Dad and the others played a couple of racks of pool. However, a game of ‘chase’ inevitably resulted. Of course, now, I realise it was after my crisps. One does not leave crisps or peanuts unattended near our dog, as he is forever on the make.

A swift walk became a jog, which became a full pelt series of laps of the table, oblivious to anything else. To everyone in the pub but me, this was, of course, utterly hilarious. I must have done the 6’ x 4’ lap ten times before someone took pity on me and collared my loopy stalker. I was many many years in coming through the experience. In some ways it became worse, as I went through puberty and into adulthood, and discovered not only that I was afraid of dogs, but also really badly allergic to them. Prick tests (fnaar), steroids, all sorts of treatments.

If I was ten that day, I suppose it was the small matter of 29 years until I took up running in such earnest again. This was, of course, the year of the great weight loss, gathering of fitness, no booze, etc. etc. And, as we know, after a couple of online dating false starts, I was to meet the lovely SWK, who now sits to my left on the sofa, quietly contemplating her decision to have married me last Summer.

Our first two dates set the tone for what has become our inseparability. I was sold on her within minutes, and told the story of how utterly useless I was on our first date last Summer to our wedding guests. Happily she was able to excuse my nitwit scaredy-cat behaviour and soon proved to be feeling about me as I did about her. However, following that second date we were to be parted for nearly three weeks, as I was promised to a Maltese holiday with Ma, and a bit of a tour around the UK seeing chums.

Eventually, we made arrangements to meet for a third time. Naturally, SWK tentatively suggested that she might bring her and now our dog out to lunch? Naturally, I said yes. I knew she had a dog and could not ignore the fact. Plus, I was falling very much in love with her, so we’d have to see how it went.. I had visions of ending lunch having turned blue, and having to ask her and the dog for a lift to A&E.

I drove to Chesterfield from Manchester in the most glorious sunshine, dressed up proper smart, small pressie in my pocket. All the while fearing doggie disaster. I arrived, and tentatively made my way over to the churchyard under The Spire. On the bench sat my beautiful girl in a Summer dress, with this little fellow. What a gorgeous pair, eh?

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Tentative peck. Nervous reintroductions, and then we set off and, within ten yards, young Milo (MTWD – Milo The Wonder Dog) looked earnestly up at me and dropped his canine guts all over the base of the nearest gravestone.

MTWD has something of a habit of crapping on consecrated ground. I have been through the experience many times since, of course. However, on that first afternoon, looking back, the ‘test’ period had begun. Cute three-year-old dog versus 39-year-old grumpy suitor for the attentions of the female.

The great success that Saturday afternoon (beyond SWK grounding her sports car on the way up to the reservoir to exercise MTWD, only to issue forth such language as I had never heard before), came when we got back to the lady’s flat. Now in an enclosed space, I feared it was only a matter of time before the very affectionate and cuddly animal did for me. But, you know what? The sneezes never came. My breath stayed clear. My skin stayed intact. I left, hours later, and the future was set fair.

Alright, yes, I had a few days when I felt a little off colour, and puffed and blowed a bit, but essentially the whole thing was written in the stars, and I stayed healthy, happy, and came to love them both as much as I do now.

But my transportation to loving dog owner was not without its tests. MTWD can be a wilful little fellow, for a dog that weighs a stone and is ten inches high. Frequently, when we were alone together, further challenges would come. One rather rainy October afternoon, with SWK out at work, I decreed he had to go out for a little bit of exercise, having lay on me in bed for the first half of the day. MTWD took a different view, and anchored himself to the ground when we got out in the wet. I implored the little chap to be reasonable, that we were only going ‘round the block and it would do him good. Nope, not budging, bugger you, forcing me out in the rain. In the end I had no choice but to commence a dragging move, at which point he responded by launching from the back end, once again, leaving a frightful streak across the pavement, which I then had to clear up. 1-0 MTWD.

A week or two later, and we were over at my place in Hucknall. Out for an evening stroll whilst SWK finished up at work. As we ambled in the dark up to the Leisure Centre, the hound dived off into the undergrowth with alarming power. Caught off guard, it was a few crucial seconds before I realised he’d got a discarded chicken bone in his craw. I attempted to grasp one end of it and haul it back into open air, but with a growl and a memorable ‘crack’, he broke up and yummied down the item. Blast! Still early days with SWK, and I feared the mutt would inevitable have pierced himself, and would expire within the hour. But no, he trotted on thoroughly pleased with himself, and home we went. And of course, wanting to prove himself terribly mistreated, he waited for ‘Mum to get back through the front door and for me to begin my cautionary tale, to vomit the blasted bone all over the place. 2-0 MTWD.

More was to follow. The time when he rewarded me for a six-mile walk by piddling up the leg of my almost new 501s when he decreed we had had to wait too long at a traffic signal. That was nice. Then the time we were visiting SWK’s Granny over in Wyre, and, to be helpful, I walked him over to Evesham to do some shopping at ASDA. Tied him up for a few minutes (this had worked fine before), popped into the store and then, a few minutes later, found myself the subject of a Customer Announcement, as the dog had gone utterly BANANAS outside. Ditched my shopping, went out in the rain (why was it always raining at times like this?) to find him being tended to by the Manager and Deputy Manager. Needless to say, as soon as he saw me he acted like nothing had happened and ‘went all cute’.

He was, let’s face it, massively ahead on points by the time when, one Sunday morning, SWK told him that I was his ‘Dad’ now. I still feel a bit misty about that, a couple of years and more later.

And he went on to become my absolute wonderful buddy. He leaps onto the bed at night and sleeps on our feet until morning. He’s laid by my side for a few days at a time when I’ve gone down with a grim cold. I’ve taught him new words, and he’s been wonderful to me so many times. He’s never off duty, and is a pleasure to be with. He cracks me in the knees whenever I’ve been out for more than 20 minutes, and demonstrated love every day of his life. I can’t remember a time when he wasn’t our lovely dog, and hate being without him.

So, there you are. Quite unexpectedly I am now a dog lover. And it only took a shade under 30 years to become such. The best things in life are worth waiting for.

Love you, doggo.

Hitting people in the face: My route to Belgium

Recently, I found myself at my local Jobcentre Plus, signing-on. Not something I had done in the better part of 20 years, but that’s where we are just now, with me having accepted a severance agreement from my former employers at the tail end of last year. Whilst it’s been a big adjustment, I do at least have a little time and some resources to rebuild a bit and see what I should do next. One thing I promised myself on New Year’s Eve 2015 was that I would at the very least try and write something entertaining for this blog on a monthly basis. So, here we are again.

The Jobcentre has changed somewhat in the last two decades, and not just through the addition of the very positive ‘Plus’ word in the title. As I have commented to others, the feel of the place was like something between the modern bank, and its lounging areas and espresso machines, and a slightly quiet Costa/Nero’s/Starbucks. Chaps wore ties, and I was called ‘Sir’ on several occasions. Lord alone knows why. My new ‘coach’, who is polite enough, shook my hand most effusively. I don’t think he really knows what I am for (he suggested I should apply for a Head of Architecture post when last we met), but his manners are impeccable. I have to go back there this week (that nice Mr Duncan Smith is always watching) for a group workshop called ‘Futures’, which might promise to take the edge off these uncharacteristically bright feelings of mine. Time will tell. I shall report.

Anyway, the last time I found myself ‘resting’, the business of signing on was not so convivial. Even in Cambridge, where one never met the same person twice, and alcohol and cigarette smoke hung thick in the air. At 8.30am. But it was vastly worse in Queen’s House, Queen Street, Ramsgate, where I had to sign on as a UB40 tourist one week by dint of visiting my parents. Here I met with actual violence, on the top floor.

Anyone who knows me will be aware that whilst I am at turns grumpy and irritable, that’s really only ever something directed inwards. I am certainly not a violent man. I’m a lover not a fighter, and am more likely to be wielding a bunch of flowers rather than a bunch of fives. Therefore, as a blameless fellow, I was surprised to find myself on the end of an angry right hander from a departing client. A Scotsman who was puce in the face, and not minded to suffer his fellow man after he left the building after what had evidently been a rather unsatisfactory tete a tete with his advisor. I was really too stunned to register how much it hurt, as I staggered into the job noticeboards. Just unlucky, I suppose. But still, an injustice had been served. I won’t do that line about rays of sunshine and Scotsmen with grievances. Oh, whoops, I have.

All this is not without irony, for only three years earlier I had been the deliverer of a violent miscarriage of justice myself. Curiously, this then led on to two of the great friendships of my life, that still endure to this day. Indeed the other parties involved may very well come to read this. Hope so.

I was just into my third year at College, and now firmly established as one of the resident bar flies. And what a wonderful, battered old youth club of a bar it was. Grubby, noisy, full of silliness, and with puddles of beer sticking to one’s trainers.  Jukebox blaring out Another Brick In The Wall; always a source of amusement to a juicer-full of trainee teachers. Out the back, a unisex toilet, where a range of activities happened, frankly.

At my elbow that evening, my dear little chum Andy, who I came to dub ‘The Pocket Genius’ when, after what one can only be described as an up and down career as an undergraduate, he popped off to the library for a couple of weeks just before Finals and somehow emerged with a First class degree. I can’t say the same, but then I never really went to the University Library much. It was a dreadfully confusing place, where I often got lost. The dust played havoc with my asthma and the reading matter was most dreadfully dull. The odds were against me from the start, frankly. ‘TPG’ was and is a man of unlimited intelligence and wit, but, like me, struggled to apply himself.  And so there we sat, sluicing down £1 pints of lager, talking utter nonsense and generally making merry.  Joining us for the evening was an ‘up and comer’ first year, our friend Nicholas. Now a bald, teetotal vegan, he was at that stage a beefy 19-year-old with a mop of curly ginger hair and a line in baseball caps, good humour and a prodigious capacity for sinking beer. You’ll perhaps remember from my earlier meanderings that he and I visited Prague and Warsaw together? Everything was going increasingly swimmingly, but the atmosphere was to change in mere minutes.

I excused myself for a time, and veered off to the loo to siphon off some of the evening’s complement of Fosters (yes, I know, I know). I was having a nice time.  As I opened the door and ducked ‘round the cigarette machine towards my seat, I saw a most unexpected sight. This appalling young upstart cracking TPG under his chin, and rocking him back on his bar stool.

To my shame, I did not wait for explanations, and waded in without ceremony. I made for the blighter, and clocked him with a good one. Cheeky young bastard, hitting my little chum like that! Devil was he thinking of? Perhaps, in retrospect, I suppose I might have bothered to ask him. Instead, I stood there, beerily enraged at the ruins of the evening, with my future great friends staggering around rubbing their bruised faces. At which point, the contretemps came to an abrupt end, through the good citizenry of our friend Tall James. Something of a warm-spirited giant of a man, he, like a number of patrons, had cut short his conversation as the brief flurry of right handers played out. He then ‘stepped in’, and deposited each of us to different parts of the bar with an instruction to generally “calm down lads” a bit. To our credit, we did.

After a time, ever the instinctive peacemaker, I recharged our glasses, offered a few handshakes, and asked of my quarry precisely what the fuck he thought he was doing clobbering a fellow who must have weighed nine stone dripping wet? I asked him this, just as he had asked me why it was that I had struck him. Of course, because my friends were at that stage on the lunatic fringe, they had, it transpired, decided to embark upon an impromptu ‘punching in the face competition’ whilst I had been busy at the porcelain. As polite young men do, right? The rest of the evening passed in a not disagreeable but slightly wary fashion, it being impossible to ‘un-punch’ someone. Time passed, bruises went down, and a less pugilistic triumvirate we became. Frankly how we ever emerged into any of the positions of considerable responsibility we have each held, I have no idea. Many unwise incidents of japery and misadventure were to follow, down the years. I’d like to stress, though, that I am not currently ‘at leisure’ because I ever hit anyone at work. I’ve certainly had to mull over some murderous thoughts in the last year or so, but as my fifth decade goes on, I find myself ever more drawn to pacifism as a credo for my existence.

Let us then cycle forward to, I think, 2006. Closing in on married life the first time ‘round, I was living a cosy existence in a West Norfolk cottage, and generally enjoying life with Sarah the First. A slight curiosity of our domestic life was that the local Council did not seem to really believe in the recycling of bottles. So it was that we found ourselves loading up the motor every few weeks and driving the empties up to our local bottle bank, in the Morrisons car park. This was a duty we both took to with great gusto. The joy of slam-dunking the plentiful number of empties was most cathartic.

So we were on just such a mission, early one cold morning. One box each, one bin each, and off we go. Glass shattered pleasingly, and all was going well, for a time. And then my fiancée let one go from a greater height and with more gusto than usual. And, alas, it rather ‘lipped out’, to use a golfing term. She caught the edge of the opening, and the bottle bounced back out, arcing through the air, only to catch me squarely on the chin at a rate of knots. I was not a little stunned, and the pain was memorable. Very much in love, and great friends as we are, we found it only to be moments before we were bawling with laughter at the accident. Slapstick at its best, of course. But still, I looked at her in good humour and said “I owe you one for that..”

Which would have been funny, if I had not just a few months later repaid her debt in a most unfortunate way. It was highly memorable, and indeed it was that lady who encouraged me to write about the incident.

So, let us cycle forward to that Summer. Off we did go to the family seat, in Ramsgate, for a couple of nights before taking the early Eurostar to Brussels. Initially, a quiet time was had by all, but then, as ever in my experience, on the night before a quite early start towards horizons new, there was chaos.

We took the parentals down to their local, for a couple of sharpeners. All jolly good and well, before returning to the homestead for a two-course meal. Lovely. Trouble is, my Father and I have never been much out of mutual love for the good services of a corkscrew. So it followed that, much in the manner of an episode of Downtown Abbey, the ladies parted the scene in favour of a good night under the duvet, and the gentlemen (using that term advisedly) chose to fight on.

I have a dim recollection of the hour chiming midnight, and a firm mutual commitment on both sides that we should finish the bottle and head to bed, for the waking hour was c.6.00am. No, no such luck. A brace of Bordeaux onwards, closing in on 3.00am, we were struck by the unmistakeably angry tones of Mother dearest, asking us quite what the fuck we thought we were doing? We had no real answer to that, beyond extinguishing cigs and hurriedly tidying the scene of the crime. The good lady popped down to lead the head of the family to the WC, pausing only to give me a rather long look. I woozily thought at that point that her holiday gift really should be a good one, after all those years of hard labour. I returned to the bedroom of my childhood and collapsed, very drunkenly, into the environs of my then partner. I can lack charm when drunk, and drunk I assuredly was.

Next thing I knew? The hour chimed six, and there came a none-too-gentle prod in the eye from my bedmate. All was not so well in pre-marital land, but I had no real sense of that, through the gift of still being really quite memorably drunk. Indeed, I was full of beans!  There was coffee, the finalisation of packing, and off we went to Ashford as my partner in crime slept on, the bastard. Except, and this is where the whole scheme fell to the ground, the very same old bastard had the indecency to come to, suddenly feel lonely and, for the first time ever in his life, thumbed away at his mobile, to contact his wife of 39 years, to demand she returned to pick him up, to see us off.

Back we went. The game was up. He struggled into some clothes and then, as Mother of mine drove to Ashford International at only just under the speed of light (we were now running late, but no one was going to question her style at the wheel), he stumbled upon the story of Adolphe Sax, and his accidental invention of, well, the saxophone (there is a Sax Museum in Brussels, we failed to attend it). He also tells me that he also told us a very rude joke about Andrew Lloyd Webber. I can’t recall that, and he won’t allow me to repeat it on my blog, so his e-mail address is lordpegwell@aol.com. Good luck.

Onwards to our point of departure, and the last memorable act of violence of my life.

Freed of my emboozed co-conspirator, we dragged our bags over to the station. There was coffee and bacon, at non-bargainacious rates, and then we whipped up through passport control and onto our platform.

And then we waited. And quite how wobbly I still was became clear to both of us. We were now oddly early but, after a while, our steed rolled in. Taking sympathy on me as she swung the door open, my then fiancée asked if I’d like help getting aboard? “Ho ho” I (jokingly) responded, and swung a fake punch at her.

And time slowed down, as it does, on the advent of something singularly appalling.

The punch impacted with a level of force one could never imagine. Bless her, we were to marry only a few months later, but the good lady’s head went back as if she had been hit by a train. Once I gathered her to the vertical, I was most effusive in my apologies. One my lower moments.

We found seats. All was quiet save for Sarah I periodically pointing out that I had “just hit her in the face”. I could not stop for apologising, of course, but, amidst it all, the terrible hell of it all, my hangover started to emerge… and as it did she actually laughed.. but one had the clear impression that reparations would need to be made.

Now, if I might be allowed to make a customary digression?

Mine have not been the most awful punches thrown in the history of humanity. They belong to a man who very briefly went to prison. His nom de plume is ‘Andy Stoke’ (AS hereafter). I met him only once, in my nineteenth year, in Crewe, where he was studying with a once friend of mine.  Tall fellow, at least 6’2”, he ate once a day, and a ‘meat’ Vindaloo on each occasion. He was, with the associated bowel movements we can only begin to imagine, a scrap of a fellow. Fortnightly, he would fold himself into his elderly mini and pop back home to watch Stoke FC play at home, after a customary pint or 8. Ordinarily to only rarely bad effect, but, at that point in time, to set himself up for the once-a-season face-up to Port Vale in ‘the derby’. Where most home fixtures would only get our new chum outside of only 8 pints between 12-3 pm, he most especially threw down 10 when it was ‘The Vale’. Derby. Etc. You understand.

And so he and colleagues weaved towards the ground. As described, all was well in the procession before he suddenly received a violent strike to the shoulder. Assuming that this was an interloper from the opposition Vale fans, our man turned and chucked a double hander. Into the forward  flanks of a police horse, alas. The horse, nonplussed, and uninjured, laid no charge. The Peelers popped him away for the night. Final score? Unknown. See? I’m not that bad.

And so we got to Brussels. Eventually. I left the equine brethren unmolested, but I was most indecorous in order. Having assured the good lady that I was in suitable order to direct us to our lodgings, I was found sorely wanting, I’m afraid. We wandered endlessly through the Eurostar station, found ourselves at the Metro, and back out again, and, ultimately, on the street again, where an incensed Sarah I took charge of the map and silently forged onwards in the right direction. Had my brains not have been leaking out of my ears for the duration of the train journey, I might have made a better study of the map.

Finally we arrived, and I was forced to taking to my bed for a while, apologising all the while, but chancing my life with a back-reference to the incident when I had been ‘bottled’. This lightened the mood, and on waking, I found the mood had warmed and we struck out for a few days of good fun.

And good fun we most certainly had. It’s true that we began most days with a certain amount of tut-tutting at the youthful co-residents from the USA, and their habit of grabbing every single bread roll to make sarnies to keep them in sustenance for the day. However, we ourselves were in good funds sufficient to keep ourselves going. The hotel also had a really quite frightening lift, sort of open on three sides, such that one observed what appeared to be the walls going downwards.. I found I had to take the journey with my eyes closed.

Brussels was rather nice. Idling in Grand Place, eyeing  up impossibly expensive artisan chocolates. Marvelling at the impossibly small and pointless Mannaken Pis (which one read had been stolen and returned many many times; it took a good ten minutes for an unenthralled crowd to part so one could take lewd photographs of it. A gentle reintroduction to alcohol in the form of delicious Belgian beer, and the discovery of a new food favourite in the form of Stoemp, a rural mashed veg. Creamy, tasty, bloody marvellous. I’ve made it myself since, but it’s not the same.

We had a couple of lovely evenings comparatively shopping for restaurant meals on Rue De Bouchers (a sort of Brick Lane of Euro-nosh, where endless waiters attempted to usher one in by making magician-like sweeps of their arms over caskets of fresh meat and fish). We went all out on the penultimate evening in a place that had an amazing double winding staircase at the back. Fizz, oysters, steaks wrapped in bacon. A little wearied by the excitements of it all, we insisted on a photo with some of the staff. This being before the era of the selfie, the photo has the look of an oddly-conceived five-a-side football team.

We visited all the EU complex, didn’t make it to that odd structure that looks a bit like a section of the Watson and Crick double helix DNA design, and eventually rolled home, without further incident. I forget what I bought my Mother. I bet it was good though, cos’ boy was she cross that morning. Father had recovered, and I gifted him a small Manneken Pis bottle opener, which still sits on a shelf in their downstairs WC, oddly appropriately.

Back next month, then? Not sure what the subject matter will be. I shall ponder. Nice to be back and writing again though.

In your smalls, for a sore throat? Medical care the Polish way.

Let’s go back a long long way, to the early years of the current century; and I think, in fact, to the year 2001. This was early on in my project to start the process of claiming as many countries as I can. As I type this, I have just hit 46, with SWK and ‘self having popped over to Turkey from the beautiful Greek island of Rhodes, for a spot of lunch and to break new territory. Our honeymoon was most splendid indeed; there are a few tales to tell at some point, but it’s more fun for me as author to jump around a bit and pull some stories out of the fading ether. Here are some more..

2001 was one of those ‘double country’ holidays which are so useful for upping one’s overall score. Discussion in our household of late has been to do another one, next year, taking in Romania and Moldova – the magic number 50 draws ever closer..

So my good friend Nicholas and I made out for the Czech Republic and for Poland. The two halves of these eight days of joy would be sewn together with an overnight sleeper train between the two capitals, Prague and Warsaw.

We flew out from Manchester on a Sunday morning, and at that stage he was still residing in Blackpool, so I trickled up the M6 at the end of the working week, and we made some merry for a day or two. As one does, in the ‘pool, which is a place I have come to love very much. Probably too much merry, in all honesty. As I look back on my life over the years during which I have travelled extensively, there have been a number of instances where the pre-holiday excitement has rather got the better of us. Alright, of me, then. I can still recall my last holiday with Sarah I (Copenhagen, another place where they pretty much charge you to breathe – just with more Lego than usual), where we rather overcooked it on a cold January night, woke in utter horror at the time the following morning, packed in the ohfuckitcramitin style and drove over the Peaks at just this side of the speed of light. Our little Citroen was visibly sweating as we pulled into the Jet Park.

Anyway, yes. Back to the Blackpool to Manchester Airport journey. In fact we were up in time, but one was a little on the bleary side. Coffee (well, his version of coffee) cut through the mist a bit, but there was still a rather nerve-jangling moment when in a slightly complacent manoeuvre I briefly piloted us up the wrong carriageway of the M55. Happily it was ridiculous o’clock, so in between m’colleague’s screams I found myself able to correct the misplacement of the motor car unhindered by (that much) traffic.

And yes, off we went to my first experience of the Czech Republic, and, to date, my only experience of Prague. Stayed in an enormous corridor of a bedroom, attempting to kill one another with Pilsnery-farts and the fumes from local ciggies of doom. Managed to actually take in some culture, here and there, in-between stopping every five bloody minutes so my dear friend could secretively count the contents of his purchased-for-the-purpose old man’s money-belt. He had the aspect of a man who felt we would come upon some dreadful footpads at any moment. But we did not, and in fact we had a high old time in a friendly place.

As the years went by, we were to holiday again. And in fairness he grew a less troubled traveller. Our last foray abroad came in 2010, to the city of Marrakech. In July, because we are idiots. Just about everything was on the point of melting, it was so hot. But still, a sign of the new jet-setting pal of mine being more at ease, and the witty raconteur we know and love being returned to us, came during a Sunday morning stroll through a shady avenue of trees in the park in the French Quarter.

I was recalling to him how my in-laws had a large brood (if that is the collective noun I am stumbling for) of pigeons, which they raced, quite regularly.

“Yep, more than a hundred racing pigeons”, I told him.

“A hundred racist pigeons?” he responded, enquiringly. I opened my mouth to speak but he continued..

“What do they do? Sit on the perch all day softly repeating Coooooon.. Coooooon.. Coooooon?”

Collapse of stout parties followed.

Where was I?

Oh yes, Prague.

We behaved alright, I suppose. Nicholas fought off that prostitute I mentioned some way back, I drank Czech red wine, which was dry and delicious. And on the Sunday afternoon of our trip we went in search of a fabled Russian Restaurant, rumoured by my guide book to serve Bear.

I quite like eating my way through the animal kingdom. Bit by bit. Like a sort of dense Darwin. At this stage we were both affirmed carnivores, so eventually we found the place, after not a little searching. It had the feel of a recently-abandoned cinema foyer, with a really weirdly low ceiling, but we were keen for our ursine consumption debut. In we strolled, to be met at the door by a diminutive Russian waitress. And, by shamefully objective standards, a very beautiful Russian waitress. But alas not one evincing much by way of a humorous take on events. Any events. Her career as a waitress, the fact it was Sunday, the sunshine. She frowned; however prettily. And without a language in which we also shared she found herself about to have a tricky time of it with two dozy Englishmen in search a spot of fricasseed bear.

We walked off together in the general direction of the toilets, and she stationed us together directly outside them. And disappeared. Some time later she strode towards us and laid out cutlery and gave us some menus. And disappeared again. My fellow traveller was now hopelessly in love with her, of course, and his talk had become rather bawdy and vulgar. Discussion of the dining options was not going to divert the conversation away from statements like “I reckon she’s a KGB spy, and could kill you by having sex with you”. Mostly because the menu was written wholly in the Cyrillic alphabet, so that was us boned.

The object of Nicholas’ affection returned. Sign language ensued (the mime for ‘drinkies’) and some time later a couple of bottles of lovely tepid Baltika appeared. And then, a moment that will live long in my memory. The time had clearly come to consider some solids, judging by the interrogative stare we found ourselves on the end of. M’colleague waded straight in:

“Do you do bear”? he asked.

Knitted eyebrows. Confusion. Something muttered in Russian.

“Oh come on, y’know, BEAR!?” he followed up, placing his hands above his head to make them look like a pair of ears, and giving a creditable if over-loud growl through bared teeth. International mime for bear, apparently.

From that moment, the wedding was off. Our girl leapt upwards and backwards about six feet in shock. Stumbling rather, I thought for a moment she might be about to pop out a small pistol and simply plug the clown there and then. Looking back it might have been a mercy. After a few moments, she regained her composure, and rather took charge of the situation. Someone needed to.

“Borscht?” she enquired.

“Borscht?” We responded.

“Borscht” she declared.

Things went quiet. A few minutes passed, until a rather insipid pair of bowls of watery Russian soup appeared. We ate in silence, paid handsomely, and left.

And then I started to feel rather ill. Not immediately, but a background tickly cough followed me around, and began to grow in intensity and soreness all the way through the rest of the day and then the following day, when were due to make our way a few hundred miles over the border, overnight, to Warsaw. By the time we holed-up at Prague train station I was in pretty ropey order. Nicholas enquired as to why I “had a face like a slapped arse” and I conceded I was struggling. Wizard that he is, he prescribed a litre of cold, soothing pilsner and a small handful of paracetamol.

Did the trick for a while, but by the time we were lay down on our bunks in what was a matchbox of a cabin, it returned with a vengeance, incubating all the while through the gift of a warm, damp bedroom and suspiciously yellowing bedding. I coughed and coughed and coughed and coughed and coughed and coughed. We attempted to cool the place by opening the window for a bit, but the amazing cacophonous noise that brought made the chances of restorative sleep almost zero.

Onwards through the night we rattled. Things were worsening, but, as I alluded to some time ago, there was a moment of drama or two.

There was a small fellow aboard with a very fulsome and neatly trimmed moustache. He and we shared, once again, no language, but by his epaulettes it became clear to us both he was some sort of train manager, as we would have it these days. As borders were crossed at various stations of the night, he would burst unbidden into the cabin, and shout POLICE! Alright, we got used to this after a while, but the first such utterance gave us a bit of a start. It had rather an accusatory ring to it – suggesting somehow they had been called to deal with the bald man and the coughing man. In fact it was just a rather laborious and entirely routine passport check, conducted by yet another trench-coated man with a gun and a dog (I like to be consistent as I whizz through Eastern Europe). Not made any easier by my ill temper, I have to confess. I’m never so chipper when I am sickening for something. A few words got bandied around, but no one left in irons, so we’ll leave it there.

There was another casualty, too. Poor old Igor the train manager, in fact. In between bursting into our cabin to scare us, he had some manner of cubby-hole of his own to skulk in. One of us got up to go for a pee, and popped the light on to get out. On returning, clicking the switch did not extinguish the naked glaring bulb in the ceiling. Had a couple more goes, and no, nothing. With sleep elusive, this was not going to make matters anything easier. We summoned our man, and mimed, somehow, our predicament. He looked at us like utter idiots, and clicked the switch. Same result, and a bulb of his own went on, as he fingered his moustache thoughtfully.

In a flash he withdrew a substantial handkerchief and threw it across his hand and reached up for the bulb. My buttocks clenched, as the room plunged into a darkness that echoed with the man’s screams as the bulb burned his wrist. Moments later came the trickle of water from our miniature sink, as he whimpered a little as the water cooled the burn. Some time later, he exited. I coughed a lot more, and eventually after what felt like weeks we arrived in Warsaw.

Straight to the hotel we went; I don’t recall how we swung it, but they saw I was unwell and allowed us in at something ridiculous like 7.00am. We both slept for a couple of hours, but then on waking we both realised something had to be done about my acute ague.

Through the mists, I remembered I had bought insurance with medical cover. There was a number one could call where folk speaking English would take your location, policy number and whatnot and would dispatch a medic to come and give you a once-over. More sympathetic now, Nicholas went off to do the necessary.

It must have been an hour later when he returned, joined by a teeny tiny Polish lady of about 50, with jet black hair and, splendidly, a long white medic’s coat and a stethoscope. A cartoon Doctor!

However, she was not for joking. Oh no. She spoke in a faintly accusing monotone, and periodically opened up her lungs to bark and order at me. I was ordered up from my sick bed, told to open my shirt so she could have a bit of a listen to the internal wiring. However she tired of that, and impolitely bade me undress down to my boxers. I baulked a bit at this, and sort of coughed a bit to indicate what I thought might be the locus of the problem she was summoned to attend to. But no, she prodded my gut a bit (thanks, lady) and it was only after a fairly extended period of standing there in my trolleys that I was told to sit down and open my mouth.

I did so, and she swooped in with some enormous manner of tongue depressing device. I began to gag, rather, and she managed just a grimace at the sight of the back of my cakehole, and if I remember rightly, gave something of a squeak of terror of my breath which, by then, would have made an efficient paint stripped.

She bounced away from me, and announced:

“You have Tonsilitis, it’s really quite serious”.

I had no opportunity to thank her for her attentions. She scribbled something on a pretty non-descript piece of official paper and directed my chum to a nearby pharmacy, and left as quickly as she had arrived. Presumably to look closely into the ear of a man with a broken leg? Dunno.

Drugs always work better overseas. I think they must just cut everything with a little bit of heroin, or something. I drank water and took my pills for two days, and emerged bright and sparkling from the whole thing for an assault on Warsaw’s hospitality. I clapped in the wrong places at a jazz concert, ate a tremendous rabbit stew, and generally had a jolly good time. Nicholas went rather downhill, having gone a two-day bender the moment I had to retire to our infirmary. He crashed through the door pissed at 3.00am on one of the nights, announcing how he had just fled from a likely fight in the hotel’s casino. Something about Blackjack, I think? Never been good on card games.

We returned to the UK with little money, but some fine memories. He wants us to go to Iceland together, next. I am concerned, because there are volcanoes there, but watch this space, eh?

Nearly Losing The Gown (the curses of never owning a ribbon)

One thing (of many) that makes life worthwhile is suddenly getting the opportunity to do something totally and utterly unexpected. Doesn’t happen that frequently, and, often when it’s with work, it’ll be something grim, which actually makes life rather worse. Such was the case, for example, when my employer required me to gather together 28 postgraduate students, squire them onto a coach at 4.30am and then take them to two different locations in London to procure visas for study in Europe.

Truly, it was a quite beautiful intersection of the indivisible: coach driver’s hours of work rules; traffic into Central London; intransigence of quasi-consular staff; the total absence of an internet café where I could print off 135612370 additional documents that were suddenly a necessity; and the fundamental and unavoidable duty of getting everyone back in one piece, or else. We actually got down there alright, but at the point we divided, things went rather awry. The first band, dealing with a proper Embassy, had their stuff sorted by midday and tripped lightly off into the sunshine to have fun. We, the second group, were still doing head-shaking battle with the Visa Processing Centre at 5 to 5, to the strain of the cleaners’ hoovers. At some stage of a hot and harried afternoon, I had taken the ‘tough decision’ (I think this is the terminology used now?) for the coach to depart with the lucky punters in the first group, whilst I gave contemplation as to how the remaining twelve of us (counting self, developing a nice case of gout, these being the pre-fitness years) would successfully hitch-hike back to South Yorkshire.

Now, in the event, it did not come to that. Mostly because I was so fumingly angry about how the whole thing had so unfairly gone, and how badly we had been treated. Reasoning that it was Friday, and that Monday was far, far away, I wielded the WORK CREDIT CARD in ‘fuck it’ mode, and we made out for St. Pancras and the ticket office. An eye-watering £972 later, we were on the next train out of there. I remember sending one of the lads off to M&S for supplies, and then spent the next two hours of clickety-clack, sipping my way down a bottle of red wine he had returned with, staring into space, a shattered man, and periodically thumbing the receipt for the largesse.

Of course, eventually Monday did come, and a certain amount of fast talking was required. In my defence, I argued that seeing as my employers never paid for anything up front, and as a consequence I was generally in debt on my own credit card to the tune of several hundred pounds, upon which I was charged interest, and yet I continued to carry out all of these extra-curricular activities, working like a dog for the good of us all, I should be left well alone before I started killing people. I think, in those 3.5 years, that was just about the one argument I managed to win.

Quite a day.

But sometimes it can be more fun than that, as I shall describe. Let us cycle forward to early September 2012. A couple of months into my most memorable year of abstinence from alcohol and carbohydrate. The year I gave up smoking, and took up walking, and then running. The year that led up to me meeting the wonderful SWK, in fact. Can’t be a coincidence, looking back.

One of the things we have to handle, here, is arrangements for graduation ceremonies outside of the UK, of which there are a few, each year. For the most part, that simply means the creation of a number of nice certificates, safely parcelled off to parts foreign. However, now and again we have to send over a bigwig of some ilk to do a bit of glad-handing, throw a few certificates around and generally make a speech and play nicely. Obviously, this requires a big hitter, as it’s such vital and hard work. My arse. However it was generally snapped up by Prof. X or Dr. Y.

Except this year, when it was not. My boss was due to be elsewhere, and quite apropos of nothing whatsoever he declared that I was to do it. I didn’t quail, because life is short, but I did have a few misgivings at the point at which it became time to be fitted for the gown. The one I used that year is the most hideous monstrosity; the rough offspring of the advert-splattered surface of a rally car, Joseph’s Technicolour Dreamcoat, and a charity-shop ball gown. Pressed into it, with a drooping cake-like hat plastered over my long and bedraggled hair, I looked like an exhausted (but well-meaning) Poundshop Gandalf. Happily, I think no pictures survive. Or maybe I just hope they don’t.

Next gig was to knock out a speech. More my sort of pace that. I was handed earlier efforts by previous wearers of this most ghastly garb. And promptly binned them, for they were the most high-handed and disinterested one-pagers of sentiment-free bilge. Couple of hours later and the volume had quadrupled and I reckoned on there not being a dry eye in the place, assuming that the audience would not be exclusively Czech speaking (for I was bound for the city of Brno, in the Czech Republic – I had been but once before, for a few thorny days back in the Spring – this trip promised to be rather more fun).

Flights booked, everything wedged into bags, I popped into the office for a couple of hours and then made my way down to Stansted and off into the blue.

Bags. Hmm. Here we reach the crux of the matter I mentioned in the title.

Now and again, the Tesco two doors down from us will knock out a deal whereby you get vouchers for every £10 or £20 you spend that count towards a reduction on some manner of higher quality products. I’d just benefitted from much the same deal that had got me a cabin and a hold bag for airline travel at a mighty reduction. So, nicely set for my debut on the graduation stage.

I benefitted further from the Priority Boarding facility that work had booked for me, so I was through passport control and waiting eagerly at the luggage carousel in little more than a breath. And so there appeared my bag. I hauled her away, and headed for the exit. I could see my driver the other side of the divide, slightly unfortunately bearing a mighty sign bearing my (long) full name and full degree title. May as well have written “Some Up-Himself Wanker” on it, but there we go. I was on the verge of addressing him when I had one of those moments of clarity for which you are eternally happy thereafter.

There was something odd about my bag.

Aside: I’m sat here typing, remembering that the bag I check most commonly still, almost three years on, does not have some manner of ribbon or other identifying piece of ‘flare’ upon it. I have learned nothing. Of course, SWK has some nice little glittery, mirror-like hair-scrunchy thing on hers, which is a) pleasing and b) identifiable from a country mile away. I must rectify this. Not cut hers off; add something to mine.

I looked down. It was a bit ‘pressed in’ on one side and, now I thought of it, a little light? And perhaps just a little too old, to be mine, although identifiably the same design. I pulled back the zip, and ventured in. I don’t know how much shock I exhibited to the rest of my fellow travellers when all I brought forth (much like the magician and the never-ending trail of knotted handkerchiefs) was a bizarre, baggage-handler-created spaghetti of ladies’ underwear, cosmetics and sundry unguents. Oh dear. In fact, bugger. Two years on from offing a grand of company money on rail tickets and M&S restorative wine, I was about to submit a garment of not dissimilar value into the unwitting hands of a heavily greased, made-up and upholstered Czech woman of indeterminate age.

I crammed the expanding matter back into the case and flew back into the luggage hall, depositing the bag onto the carousel with no little speed.

A few minutes of quiet prayer and meditation followed. Then a few more, as I composed letters of apology and/or resignation. Until there my bag stood, and I tore it open to reveal the familiar gaudy hideousness of my party outfit. Composure re-gathered, I made for car, hotel, and spot of dinner. Phew.

On which subject. If you ever go to Brno, please go to Steakovny a Pivny Bar, and have a half litre of Pilsner and their Steak Tartare. You’ll walk out full and happy for £5 and have spent 40 minutes in one of my favourite bars of all time. Oh, and make sure you take a photograph of the motorbike on the ceiling:

S and P

Let’s finish this tale with a little local colour from that which I was there to do.

Next day was graduation day. My lovely lovely Czech colleagues fed me dumplings and the like on what was a hot lunchtime until I could barely walk unaided, and then wheeled me ‘round to the conference centre where the ceremonies (three of ‘em) were to be held. I was introduced to most of the city, forgetting, immediately, who anyone was. I patted my pocket every 15 seconds to reassure myself I still had my speech (two copies thereof). I hauled myself into the sweaty silken vestments, donned the cake, and straightened my tie. We went through the order of service one last time, and set out in a gentle crocodile for the rotunda building. A regular donnish Village People, we were, too.

As we crested the steps up, the brass band started to play a fanfare. All very jolly. 600-odd guests leapt to their feet, and in we swanned. I attempted solemn, but I think I might have been grinning my face off, in honesty. We arrived at our chairs, the band farted to a halt and I started to make moves to lever my chair out from the desk to take a load off and have a bit of a think. However, my friend MB caught my eye and gave a little shake of the head. I stood firm, and back came the band with a vengeance. All ‘around me, young and old, male and female, Czechs of all types pressed hands to hearts and struck up what I soon gathered was the National Anthem. Stirring stuff it was too. Behind me the State flag unfurled, and I felt a real sense of privilege at what I was involved in.

Silence fell, emotions settled, and again I was just reaching for the old recliner when there was the unmistakeable parp of the opening to our own little Signature Tune, back home. The unremitting (if pleasingly harmonic, SWK would want me to say) plodding dirge of God Save The Queen. 1,200 eyes settled upon poor old Gandalf as, this time fuelled by no more than water, he fell to shyness, and attempted to look sombre and stately whilst eyeing his toe caps. My pipes stayed shut on this occasion.

The ceremony went well. All three did, and by the last, my speech was real slap-a-my-thigh stuff. I certainly made out a few titters, anyway. Otherwise the duties were light. Come when called for, stand in line, grasp certificate, shake hands with candidate offering positive sentiments as to their achievements to date and future prospects, pose for photo, rinse and repeat. It got a bit lively during the late afternoon when a thunderstorm rolled in of quite epic proportions. Had our dog been there he’d have nipped under my blessed gown. Actually it was quite an appropriate score to the whole process, as shaking hands with excited 21-year-old Czechs can be, I have learned, something of a Russian roulette routine. Trouble is the whole the whole thing rattles by in something of a blur. Names of the next punters to get called up for a congratulation session do get called out, yes, but their sex is never really quite clear until they are upon you. Now, not to label folk, but 80% of the Czech youth appear to come into two categories. They are either six stone females on 15inch heels skittering around like the young Bambi, with handshakes of only one atom’s width. Or, they are horny handed sons of the soil, at least 8 feet high in their stockings, and amateur javelin throwers. With the former, there is the risk that a firm handshake will disfigure them or dismember them quite dramatically. With the latter, one breathes in and simply has to manfully meet their gaze as, cheerfully and unknowingly, they set your knuckles afloat, as they pump merrily away at your palm. When one of those boys hoves into view, and the thunder crashes behind him, you know what pain is.

Finally, our ceremonial duties done, we peeled off in a long slow arc to the reprise of the fanfare. I peeled away the layers of gown, delighted to find the ink had not run and tattooed my short-sleeved arms. I cursed the thing (I never took it again, and I have been three times since), bagged it, and headed out for another pint of Pilsner. Truly, a marvellous experience I never could have thought I would have. Bravo Brno.

Having knocked out a couple of pieces in a week, I find myself a little confused as to what my next piece will be. So, come back soon for a spot of pot luck, eh?

Love to all.

How I became Marilyn: Matrimony, Macedonian-style, with black drinks, and your phone in the river as you want to puke on a Ukrainian

And so we now go whirling back in time to May 2008. And quite a week, it was. A relocation with Sarah the First (some years were still to pass before SWK swung so delightfully into view – let’s call her STF, as I love a good acronym) across country from cosy West Norfolk to Scary Sheffield was waiting in the wings. Before we departed on the trip I shall describe further down, I was hauled one sunny morning to a place called Go Ape! Based in Thetford, this place. In a forest – you can see where I am going with this, right? Essentially a whole lot of ropes, nets, ladders and zip wires, onto which, following a period of instruction and the usual embarrassing fitting of equipment, one would attach oneself in a variety of ways and then sort of move through the greenery, like a rather unconvincing, breathless and careworn ‘ape’.

Actually, it was quite good fun, even for someone given to a little light curmudgeoning, now and again. I’d dropped a few hundredweight in the first half of the year, and felt rather fitter and stronger and nippier than normal. Therefore I sort of did ‘alright’, even though, as I say, it was a hot day and I’m not and will never exactly be Tarzan. Still, for all that, I have fond memories of the first zip wire, where I managed to maintain proper balance and could see directly ahead all the way down. The longer they get, the more chance there is that your balance will be disturbed and you will start to rotate as the whole contraption heads downhill – frankly if you so much as fart or raise a quizzical eyebrow, it’s a case of round and round you go. All this makes for a rather dizzying point of re-introduction to the terra firma, of course. I only really blotted my copybook as a calm, determined and entirely adult ‘ape’ at the point when, at the conclusion of the whole shebang, I thudded to earth for the last time really very uncomfortably, and scrabbled to my feet, rubbing myself, exclaiming “aaaargh, my BACK, my FUCKING BACK!” Inevitably, as is the way with these things, a young family full of goggle-eyed and adorable toddlers was having a nicely behaved lunch, on a blanket in the sunshine, about six feet downstage. So, my soaring into this scene and oathing my way out of it must have been a real treat for them. I mumbled something apologetic and lumbered away, studded with bark chippings, and trailing clips, crampons, cords, crash helmets and the like from my bruised person.

Home we sped, to pack, and set sail for the delights of the Balkans.

If I recall correctly, and more than a few years have passed, we managed to get into the country with little or no incident. Via, I think, Vienna, when it was a place as yet unknown to me. Vienna would have its rather surly and humourless revenge on us on the way back, to the tune of a bottle of DF vodka purchased by STF for 70p or something in Skopje airport. It was convincingly-enough bubble-wrapped and sealed and so forth, but was plucked from our property by a rather hatchet-faced mädchen, who declared it to be illegal in some way or another, as she cast it into an enormous Bin Of De Trop Booze. I was feeling rather off-colour, and remarked “Welcome to Vienna” rather too loudly, and got shot rather a look.

Anyway, yes, so, Macedonia. Stone the crows it was hot. Various bags put in an appearance, and we sweltered with them into a cab driven by heavily moustachioed fellow intent on giving us the history of the country since Tito, and a short lecture on what he termed the Balkan Mentality. We whizzed this way and that, everywhere and anywhere, and finally were put down at an indistinct crossroads, as our boy, whilst dynamite on domestic history and sociology, wasn’t exactly white hot on the final location of our hotel. There followed a slightly ill-tempered period of disappearing off in several different directions (Cyrillic not being a speciality of mine, and only partially registering with STF). Rather more by luck than judgement, we finally fell upon our hotel, immediately recognised both a swimming pool and a bar that sold cold, cheap beer, and generally unwound for a bit.

I should that explain that we were in town for a wedding. An old school friend of many years – let’s call him Benj, for his name is Benj – residing at that time in Budapest, was marrying his partner, a native of Macedonia. So, a couple of days playing by ourselves, a split stag-hen do that came to form a joined event later on, and, ultimately, the wedding, with our flight due to take off at slightly alarming o’clock the following morning. Nice mixture, interesting and perhaps unlikely location for a (at that stage) less-travelled pair, good weather. All pointed upwards.

One or two chums dropped in. Family members unseen for some time. A little beer was taken and, at some stage or another, STF and I noodled off to a couple of unusual bars (one festooned with hookahs and pillows, making seating an unusual business), and a spot of inexpensive dinner. Night came down, another bar was showing one of the Eurovision semi-final heats, our shorts were on and we generally kicked back and watched the night gradually cool from the heat of the day. Skopje was a real proper mixture. Old and new, battered and pristine, ancient and modern. Lovely waterfront, and a glorious Fortress (Kale) staring down on the city, up to which we scampered on the second morning, to learn about earthquakes and to mock the dreadful appearance of the football stadium, which appeared to be sort of melting on one side, and thus threatening to tilt into the river.

Clambering back to the hotel, as was often our wont on holiday, we got the sniff of an entirely unnecessary nightcap. And, but ten doors down from our quarters, there stood a small cube of a building. Scarcely identifiable as a bar, but just about such. A scattering of plastic garden furniture and the low thrum of revelry and music inside. Bravery and boozery got the better of us and we stepped down from the highway a few steps and into the throng.

The place was doing a high old trade, the jukebox skipping merrily, and, on something like a Wednesday night, the floor was peppered with cheery locals dancing, quaffing and ignoring the encroaching morning. So, we did too. And had our first real introduction to how good Macedonian red wine is, and how little it can cost. At some point we reeled off and away and back to HQ, topped-up nicely with something of roughly the quality of a Lebanese wine (my favourite), at about 15% the cost. Remarkable!

Off to a flier, and a couple of terrific days followed, learning more and more about our host city. Sunshine, and that enjoyable mixture of urban, semi-rural, commerce, hub-bub and catch-up all came together quite, quite beautifully. We had the most splendid time and I remember it hugely fondly, some years on. I remember lunchtime on the day of the stag and hen do, where we thought to take on board some preparatory solids over a spot of late lunch, and did a bit of digging around to find a ‘local’s hang out’, which was recommended in our guide book. Glad we did. It was not a lot more than an elongated wooden and brick shack, about a quarter inch from the thundering highway, with an open fire oven at one end. Characterful, shall we say? I have been trying to find it again on the internet to give you the name, but no dice, alas. If it ever emerges from the guidebook, I’ll pop it up on an edit here. Anyway, after a hard morning working our way ‘round ‘Ramstore’ (a mall, which sold everything, near enough) in pursuit of some jewellery, we fell upon our lunch gladly. A cold glass of beer each, with an enormous long, grilled chilli pepper, which took our heads off, and a delightful Shopska salad (I left the country full to the brim with that – still can’t make it as well at home, for all its simplicity). Followed that up with a kebab each and a litre of water and a litre of house red (again, stellar, I can almost summon the taste back now). We emerged, blinking into the sun, about £9 lighter. Wonderful.

So, on we gleefully went, and eventually, after the cavortings of the preparatory parties, it was time to get (a bit) serious, with the whole wedding shebang.

The day dawned bright, sunny and the temperature clambered on up into the middle nineties. English people gathered, sweatily, at the poolside, fingers circling the inside of dress collars, swilling down bottled water as preparation against the heat and onslaught of suspicious drinks to come. Benj appeared, and led us en masse, as his ‘supporters’ to the flat where his intended’s parents resided. First item of Macedonian tradition underway. We bundled into lifts, party by party, up to the 23579th floor, and pushed in. There began a process of bargaining for the bride’s release. Ultimately this was a release secured by the handing over a sum of money to the bride’s sister, but firstly we enjoyed Benj getting wrong (and quite badly wrong) a series of questions about the future Mrs Benj, the correct answers to which would have secured her release all the sooner and more cheaply. No matter, soon all were together, the windows flung wide, and the living room transformed into a dancefloor for that always incomprehensible tradition of forming massive circles, holding hands, walking and periodically kicking in the same direction and shouting “HEY!” whilst on a record somewhere someone gives it six-nowt on a balalaika, or similar. Roaring good fun. Bottles of suspicious-looking over-chilled Rakija (a glorious blend of what you know best of grappa, brandy and a good single malt) appeared, and were carefully sipped at. The hour was barely noon. Hmm..

Onto phase two. Get Me To The Church on Time. Our massive group of Europeans of all types (what a cool day this was – bollocks to all that suspicious-of-everyone right wing crap – people from everywhere are, frankly, ace) crammed onto coaches, and off we rolled to a Macedonian Orthodox Church, somewhere on the fringes of the city. Cracking building. Retreated to a safe distance to admire and photograph it, so as to make bolting down more water and having a cheeky gasper seem reasonable. Eventually, as the Sun really began to give it what for, we were summoned in to stand in rather arbitrary crowds and bear witness to the service.

I can’t do it justice, really. Not in meagre words, I wish you could pop into the cinema of my memory. There appeared to be at least 17 priests, and all of them bearing at least a passing resemblance to Brian Blessed. Happily one of the this throng of mighty churchmen was able to give us the headlines in English, and there followed a good 70-80 minutes of listening and repeating, bread eating, altar wine drinking, crown wearing, crown wearing and walking in a circle, and all manner of utterly wonderful marriage-related lunacy and flimflam. Quite a show. So much fun that we forgot, for a while, that we were melting. Brian #6 had to step in and give Benj a bit of a towel down at one point, I seem to recall. Possibly the best element of this was the presence of a sort of 1970’s school caretaker (tall, thin, and wearing a very long brown- buff housecoat), who hovered close to the action at all times. As and when we had got through the use of one prop or gewgaw or another, he sort of dove in and nabbed it, and popped off to his lair with it for safekeeping. Seemed a bit much, to me. Bit Gollum-y. Certainly he didn’t seem to be asking “have you finished with this, you eminence?” or something respectful of that nature. Not so much as a by your leave. Dearie me.

At some point, and it was never quite clear when, it emerged that Benj was a married man. The church disgorged our bedraggled selves, and we made for the coach. And so to the reception, and a long and thirsty afternoon and evening.

Things started well. Strawberries, local fizz (unlike the Ukrainian stuff I was to taste a year later, it was okay), chats in the shade. All good. And then the mid-afternoon meal began. Entire flasks of perfectly-chilled Rakija emerged, with more of the lovely salad. Then a course of various ‘bits and bobs’ with wine, and, ultimately, a well-need sharpening coffee and some sort of sugary dessert. One became ‘chatty’ as the sunshine and the drink seeped its way around the blood. Not offensive, just enthusiastic. Shared an anecdote or two with some unwitting Hungarians.

I’m not sure, in retrospect, that our wonderful Macedonian hosts were quite ready for the speeches aspect of the wedding day. I mused for some time afterwards that it’d all come as a bit of a surprise, and was not really part of what would normally be expected. Anyway, this being an international affair, we forged on, the giant and wonderful Goran translating this way and that. Parents made light hearted contributions of a generous nature. Benj’s brother (the Best Man) rather threatened the smoothness and equanimity of proceedings with a lengthy speech that included an alignment of commentaries on the troubled Liverpool borough of Bootle (where once Benj had very bravely resided, despite two police raids) and FYR Macedonia. I think he must have thought himself quite clever. Some of us found ourselves rather looking at our shoes, none too impressed at our brother of Albion. Ho hum. Riot, there was none.

And so to Benj, and thereby to me. We’d barely got anywhere before he was on me, the cur. Always been a challenging friend, has our Benj, bless him. Firm believer in himself. Apt to rattle the cages of his chums. Lovely chap.

He was only about 90 seconds or so in, when he chose to tell the flagging audience that, today of all days, was his Mother’s birthday. Collective round of applause, all parties charmed. Then he pointed out that I had got married to STF on my Mother’s birthday (about 18 months or so beforehand) and on that occasion had sung her Happy Birthday, in ringing tones, accompanied by our guests. As such, with that having been a great success, Benj felt it only right that I should reprise the role, and sing Happy Birthday to his Mother. ‘Course he did. Scrawny bastard. No word of warning, just a smile playing on his lips from 30 yards away as he proffered the microphone.

It’s one of those times, isn’t it? Kill or be killed. You just react. I lowered the last of my Rakija and made out for the stage, smiling all the while. Into my paw the mike it did go, and I was straight into it. I’ll confess I did not start out over the first furlong really knowing quite what form I was in or, for that matter, what approach I was going to take, but it soon became clear, on that sun-blasted later afternoon, that I was going to go for a Baritone version of Marilyn Monroe signing to the young JFK. It won’t have been note perfect, for sure, and some of the intonation would have been a bit dodgy in parts. But, sufficed to say I belted it out and it killed. I walked off to a deafening roar of approval, the smuggest man in Skopje, as the picture below indicates.

Marilyn

I spent some considerable time getting over the whole business. Coffee, water, another glass of this and that, and the night rolled on. Some fell by the wayside, others danced, and drank on. I met an American, and we stood for a couple of hours at the end of some trestle tables next to a hug tureen of ice cubes, and sampled tumblers of many different firewaters from across the great continent of Europe, and talked bullshit about them. In the distance, one of Benj’s more louche relatives danced with my wife and periodically attempted to grab her bottom. We poured something that was black, herbal, and from Belarus, that was unutterably foul, but somehow found its way into the case the following morning. I only finally jettisoned it from the cellar in late 2011. At some point, I wandered off for a stroll, my day nearly run, and found myself weaving rather across something that seemed, in the glooming, to be quite like the Swilcan Bridge at St. Andrews golf course. In retrospect, I am pretty much certain that it was there that my mobile phone and I parted company (as I discovered the following morning, whilst packing), which was to prove simply ideal on returning to the UK to deal with things like house sales and purchases. Belarus 1 Self 0.

You know you’ve had a bloody good wedding when you leave last, and so it was with STF and me that night. We were finally levered from conversation with the hotel staff by the Bridge and Groom and into a taxi for our hotel, there to collapse for what felt like mere minutes.

Another day dawned bright. Us less so. Some rather ‘ask questions later’ packing took place. After a few panicked attempts at finding it, the old ‘phone was declared a casualty of the evening, and we eventually clambered our way into a mighty wagon, bound for the airport. Drinks of the world seeped from each and every one of the pores. The head started to pound and the lady next to me (whom I had not met the day before) talked incessantly at me for every yard of the journey in the way that only someone who’d behaved sensibly the day before could. She drew very few breaths indeed, during those torturous 12 miles.

And so to the airport, and check-in. The place was rammed, I remember. Aside from the purchase of the doomed DF vodka, we got ourselves outside of a couple of cold cans of soft drink, which brought the horizon, at least temporarily, into clearer relief. But, soon, there were delays, and squatting on the stone floor as the heat built. A resignation to a long day of rather bilious travel set in. It was properly etched into stone when we took our seats on the plane. I was placed in the middle of a set of three seats (never my favourite position as a heavier-set man), and did my best to relax. Whereupon three loud and ENORMOUS members of the Ukrainian National Weightlifting Team (two male, one female) sidled into the row above, and took heavily to their seats, rather threatening the aerodynamic properties of our bird, I thought. The shortest and widest of these specimens popped his seat back ( I am against this practice, and will return to it at wearying length), landing his vein-bulged bald head into the environs of my crotch, and I quietly focussed, as best as I could, on keeping all that Shopska salad down.

Right, I must grab the nettle and do a bit more of this. Let’s have a change of tack next time, and I’ll give you a work-travel tale, in the form of:

Nearly Losing The Gown (the curses of never owning a ribbon)

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An Irritable Inheritance

Goodness, it’s been simply weeks and weeks. NINE weeks, nearly. I do apologise, dear readers.

Funny how things all come together in one rambling way or another, isn’t it? Much as my first article about fleeing the prostitutes of the great continent of Europe was prompted by a late-night, post-gig proposition, my latest little stream of consciousness here has come into being through real life circumstances as well.

I have spent those last few weeks in something of a funk. Less strictly irritable, I suppose, but more uncharacteristically dejected and angry, as my experiences at trade have been rather less than happy ones; however the detail of why is far far too dull for here, and if spelt out might only hasten a foreshortening of my career if I chose to expand upon it in this public forum. The old internet can be a bit iffy like that. So: difficult times, suffice to say.

In my defence I would like to say I have not been particularly grumpy, per se, for as we know it was one of my New Year’s Resolutions to not be grumpy. Or to try to be less grumpy? I sort forget, and not being forgetful wasn’t one of the Resolutions. That much I remember. Anyway, instances of grumpy-guilt purchasing of flowers for the redoubtable SWK have been fairly few, instead they have been purchases born exclusively of love. All together now.. aaaah. <Vomit>

So, I seem to have actually had a few days in a row of employment without any major maelstrom or dreadful decent into despond. I am, for the moment at least, non-irritable, and, as such, reminded of the need to be creative (i.e. to blog) and thus to write, as promised, about my historic instances of irritability when travelling. As you do, when you’re feeling cheerful. Oh well, I did promise.

There. That’s the first 300-odd words sorted. This is easy!

So, basically, it’s all my Dad’s fault. To look at and listen to him now, you would think he has always and forever been the genial, pink-cheeked and silver-haired old buffer we now behold, snoozing on the sofa, holding hands with the dog. Do not be fooled. This is the result of a sharp-footed segue into partial early retirement at the age of 50. Had he laboured on for a further 15 years on a full time basis, I can safely predict, as carrier of the active irritability gene, that the ulcers would barely have healed by now.

I’m certainly not picking on the old boy, here, I should point out. No indeed; I love him as much as everyone else does, and he’s going to be my Best Man when SWK and I take the plunge this Summer, which is all really rather cool. My Stag Do will be me and him going to the pub, then me and him going for dinner. Perfect.

No, what I am doing is a bit of amateur sleuthing as to where the old X and Ys made me a trifle crosspatch. Not flamingly angry or anything, and for the most part I see the humour in everything and anything, but I do have the little doomsayer “ohbollocksitsallgonewrong” voice in my head, and sometimes he likes to use my mouth to be heard by everyone else. He’s addressed the Police, in the past, and we scarcely got away with it. I wish he’d keep a lower profile, I battle quite hard to shut him up and stay even-tempered, on frankly even those most happy, sunshine, skipping and daisy-chain making of days. ‘S lovely, being me.

Anyone with two brain cells to rub together would tell you that this does not come from my Mum. A well-organised, calm but determined woman with an unflappably even temperament, and successfully partnered to, well, to him for the last 57 years. No jury in the land would convict her in this case.

I can prove it’s him, and start to get ‘round to addressing a bit of actual travel. But first, I should say that part of the proof comes from the fact that whenever I am found  to be demonstrating my characteristic irritability (and this irritability can be brought on by pretty much anything – I am just a delight to be around, for example, if I am make even the tiniest misstep in the kitchen), and he is around, the first sound one will hear is the hiss of his Muttley-like laughter escaping as he gathers his breath to say “hahahahah – you sound like me!”

Bugger. Case closed. Wouldn’t it be nice if, much in the way you can have all the blood in your body changed, you could flush out a pint or three of unfortunate traits like this? Oh well – one lives and tries to learn.

So, some time before I had my first adventure in longer term relationships and marriage, the old boy and I used to have a wee Summer holiday together. All most agreeable, it was. ‘Round the Republic of Ireland one year. ‘Round the North East another year and a circular Scottish odyssey on the other such occasion. We’ve had another trip away, since, in my break between marriages, which I will tell you about another time. Rather than an exercise in grouching, that was in fact an exercise in inspired coffee making, of which I remain very proud to this day. Anyway, ‘Frying Pan Coffee’ is for another day.

We were travelling, during year three of our Summer Spectaculars, from Inverness to Edinburgh, on a warm Sunday morning. Father was at the wheel. We’d been away about a week and had had a high old time, gadding about and living high on the hog. Too high, within the previous twelve hours.

Didn’t take to Inverness, if I am honest. Bit nothingy, much as I know it has its fans. Wedged into the latest of a series of Lilliputian rooms together at a B&B the small matter of 3259612056 miles outside the town (the internet being a big fat liar there), we had an interminable walk back over the river on a scruffy black iron bridge in pursuit of the evening’s nosebag. Once again, to a flea-bitten boozer for two pints of over-fizzed Tennent’s, which had become routine, but increasingly a chore.

Still, we’d espied a curry house, and ducked in for an early Saturday evening feed. Most agreeable it was, and we waddled back pleasingly full, across the endless bridge, to get heads down before the journey South through Perthshire the following morning.

On rising, I think we were temporarily fooled into a feeling of hunger, somehow. I recall a dusty and rather overheated breakfast room in the morning sunshine, and beading with sweat as the third sausage went down. Fool’s errand. I know now, of course, that simply because food is free, one doesn’t actually have to press it down like compacting rubbish into one’s wheelie bin.

A headache set in, as I reached for the map and dropped, steatopygous, into the passenger seat. Father strained under the wheel of our little (ghastly orange) Peugeot and the little car fought its way, under a substantial burden, onto the high road. Even it seemed a bit moody.

Travel does odd things to the body. I don’t want to be indecorous here, but like many of us, one likes to feel ‘regular’. No crime to mention that, surely? Apologies for the fainter-hearted; I’ll get off the subject shortly. It’s just I have found on so many occasions that my arrival in a new place, generally by aeroplane, then heralds an unfortunate period of being, er, ‘bound up’. Bound up = irritable. Like a big baby, really. Not good.

Back in those days, one launched an assault each new morning on the unwilling lower workings with the two gifts of caffeine and nicotine. More often than not, one would feel an inner stirring of a pleasing familiarity, and all would be well. Even shit coffee could lead to a good shit! And heaven knows I could knock you out about 25,000 words any time you like on my views on coffee and hotel breakfast rooms. That’s one of my favourite subjects to get irritable about. How familiar to me has become the long, post-breakfast search through the Old Town of somewhere or other in desperate need of something, almost anything, to replace the taste of the crumbled wet mud one had been forced to endure as an accompaniment to one’s ‘Full English’, or crazy overseas equivalent. Instances of good breakfast coffee are rare indeed. I’m a real picnic, when I have failed to have a nice coffee, as you can imagine.

So there we sat, wheezing our way to points South, the structural integrity of our outer dermic and muscular layers under considerable threat from a package of food that looked less likely to prove digestible than would a stone of Ailsa Craig granite.

You know we’re both irritable when it goes quiet. Normally in shared company we witter on, amusing one another and annoying my Mother. Not that she ever shows this, being, as we have seen, a nice person. Nope, silence, near enough.

Tried, and failed , to get Test Match Special on the car radio. Too many hills (the scenery was spectacular – I can conjure it in my mind’s eye, but was insufficiently praising of it at the time, as we wandered biliously down the A9). This led to irritability. It was too warm. This led to irritability. The storm clouds gathered in our little cockpit. We bickered a little about whether or not Margate FC had a game on Monday night and how we would find out the result. The truly irritable would manage to bicker about anything.

The crashing downpour of f-ing and blinding finally came when, for about the 107th time, a car and caravan weaved, without signal, out of its lane and into our path, halting progress from a nice downhill 68mph to a snail-like 43mph, as we waited for the convoy to re-enter the slower flowing stream to our left. It may have been a car and caravan; equally it may have been one of those big ‘things’, that Americans call Winnebagos (I think) that we delight in calling ‘Commodore’, ‘Senator’  or ‘Clubman’, or ‘Pioneer’, for fuck’s sake. A strengthened cardboard box, with a barrel of chemicals and poo somewhere within its structure anyway (not that we were jealous).

The cure for the irritability came in our solidarity over the irritability. All of a sudden, we had our teeth into the subject. Casting aspersions as to the characters of the owners of this behemoths. Constructing descriptions of their fiery demise, far below us in the valley. Drawing up legislation to enforce the usage of these vehicles between 11.00pm and 5.00am only, that would, of course, skip lightly through parliament, because of course, everyone felt as we did, in that moment, didn’t they?

Whatever the case, it did the trick. With eyes of fire, we were punch-lining one another’s jokes, and giggling like children. The temperature gauge dropped, the sun went out of our eyes, and digestion recommenced. I suppose, in retrospect, one might argue that road rage is good for irritability? Hmmm. Or at least indigestion? Not sure, but it got us through that morning, anyway. And we did have a game on the Monday, and I was right.

I became fabulously irritable on two occasions, some years apart, but around roughly the same issue. Much more irritable than I was that Sunday. The cause of my eye-popping ire? The position of seat-backs. Oh for heaven’s sake that’s one that really ticks me right off. My teeth are a good 2mm shorter than they should be thanks to that. One instance was on a return from Macedonia, innumerable years ago, following a wedding and with a hangover of really quite spectacular proportions. The other was more recent; on a short shift from Croatia into Montenegro, when, though no prudes, we found ourselves with some appallingly arrogant and self-satisfied young people seemingly intent upon on international congress in our laps. I shall bring all these stories and more together next time in an upcoming dizzying epic:

How I became Marilyn: Matrimony, Macedonian-style, with black drinks, and your phone in the river as you want to puke on a Ukrainian

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BEING FRIGHTENED BY HOOKERS: A TWO PARTER (THE JOYS OF BEING BRITISH AND RUNNING AWAY) PART THE SECOND

And so we go to Norway. Oslo, more precisely, at the tail end of June, 2013.

Most of the way through one of the most instructive twelve months of my life so far. I had not taken a drink for 49 weeks, had recently run a dozen miles ‘round Lisbon in the raging heat, and was, looking back, only a tantalising six weeks from meeting the tolerant and beautiful SWK. I was about five and a half stone lighter than I had been the year before, and closing in on what was a final weight loss of 102lb.

I was fit as a fiddle. Well, for me I was. Life was very good, if a bit lonely (internet dating had proved a rocky road – it might set most of the world up with their partners these days, but it just gave me a continuous headache and a feeling of unworthiness – happily all that ended in August with the biggest slice of luck of my life so far). The only other lingering issue was that I was still a smoker. Had been for more than 20 years, despite being an asthmatic. Smelly and ‘spensive and it was, I am sure, labouring my efforts to become a better and better runner. It had to go. Everything else bad had, so why not, eh?

So, off I went, intending to eat well, and drink zero (having planned to do a full year off the sauce as part of my master-plan of self-improvement), at as reasonable a cost as I could manage (ho ho ho – the only more expensive city to Oslo I have visited so far is Zurich, where you are charged at the airport €0.10 for every breath you’ve taken since clearing customs). Add to that some quality tourism (there’s loads to do in Oslo – it’s completely ace), a little running and an assiduous study of the teachings of the very famous Allen Carr book “An Easy Way To Stop Smoking”.

At times it went well, and at other times badly. It was, amongst other things, also my first attempt at any sort of travel blog, which I have just recalled in writing this. That project rather fell by the wayside, until SWK’s promptings last Summer. Unfortunately the two extant notes I have left up on Facebook don’t capture my experience of marching ill-advisedly into what turned out to be the sister HOSTEL to the HOTEL I had actually booked, on the first afternoon I was there. Truly an embarrassing experience when half of the teenaged population of Europe looks agog at you, asking to a (young) man and woman “WTF? Who brought their DAD!!??”

Anyway, we’ll gloss over that. And, I think, the experience in the curry house where I managed to plough a glossy, black and memorably viscous (well, the replacement one was) double espresso deep into the nap of the expensive white linen table cloth, no doubt writing it off. Another golden moment that I spent some time kicking myself for afterwards. The main drama came on the first evening, and yes, I’m coming to that.

There weren’t, overall, too many incidents of poor tourist etiquette, I think. I rarely do these things wilfully; it’s mostly just by dint of unfortunate accidents or not concentrating properly on what I am trying to do. I found the population of the city to be pretty friendly and accommodating, as well as quite staggeringly tall. I’d have made a fortune as a pickpocket, as everyone’s bum was at roughly the height of my shoulders.

I had a wonderful time on the Sunday morning at the Vigeland Park, which houses hundreds of Gustav’s Vigeland’s statues (the geezer that designed the Nobel Peace Medal). I was terribly fond of this one:

Vigeland

The big highlight of the Park is the Monolith. One whacking great tall cylindrical stone with 121 figures cut into it, all climbing joyously over one another towards the heavens. Quite something, and referenced beautifully in the soaring Robyn Hitchcock and the Venus 3 song “Goodnight Oslo”, which I recommend to anyone, frankly. Here you are (3:30 in):

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8_dTsrhIDZo

What’s got into me? I have become all serious and travelogue-y. Yeah, so it’s great, definitely go there. Oh, and it’s free, which is always nice.

And what else, before we get to my latest escape from the ice grip of avaricious and unfeasibly tall sellers of the sex?

Oh yes, I gave up smoking! Been off the dread weed for 18 months and little bit, now, and feel sparkling for it, in all honesty. There’s a surprise. I’ll concede I did take to ‘vaping’ after about six months, but of course that’s entirely without all the smoky-burny-death stuff, so I am not going to cry about that too much. Plus you can pretend it’s a pipe, with all the concomitant comedy of that particular item of smoking paraphernalia.

The book was ace. I must read it again, at some stage, just to reinforce the messages, but I know I’ll never light up a cigarette again. It doesn’t preach, it just spells out a number of sensible messages, and repeats them. And your desire to smoke crumbles away, frankly. I’d sit and puff away through the odd chapter, here and there, over the first 48 hours. Coffee, outside the hotel bar, a few more pages, puff, puff, puff.

Then to the final chapter. Your Last Cigarette. I smoked six in a row, and felt like utter and total dogshit. Crumpled up my last Gauloises packet, hoofed it in the bin and that was me. Thank goodness for that.

I’d been at a bit of a loss on my first evening as to where to go for my first Norwegian nosebag. I had scouted around quite a bit during my first recce of the city, and everything seemed terribly well-heeled and not for the likes of little-old-me, or a bit generically McDonalds-ish. I was starting to imagine there to be no happy medium, when I alighted upon a more ‘country fayre’ looking place, that advertised some more offbeat but locally-styled food with mercifully fewer zeroes on the end than had been the case so far. Whizzed back to the hotel, popped a smarter shirt and a jacket on (because, yes, I live in the 1950’s), tootled back and crossed the threshold.

What happened ran thusly (we can open with a quote from one of those notes I left up):

“Seated by a nice chap who promptly removed the other table setting WITHOUT asking if I had company, then lit me a nice romantic candle. Bastard. Removed 1% from prospective tip.

So, I, er, had reindeer and then whale for dinner. Sorry, yes, I know this is not particularly cuddly or all that but a) I still love eating weird stuff and b) when in Rome etc. and c) it’ll be me that gets Mercury poisoning, not my more sensitive readership. Anyway, assuming I am spared, I can tell you it was LUSH. Oh my it was. Whale tastes like a cow that’s lived, and lived well, underwater. Salty, beefy, and yummy.

Non-romantic Comedy Waiter returned and I sent him off to fire up the coffee pot, whilst an unlikely scene played out to the left of my nice candle. A Japanese film crew had come in for dinner. Lenses, tripods, techies, an actress, etc. The lot. They all got stuck into their ‘Taste of Norway’ seafood starters, but then broke off halfway through to rearrange the table, take a few stills, do some filming without then with the actress (eating) and generally seemed to be delighting one another an awful lot. I still have no earthly notion as to what was going on. I harbour a secret hope that there’s going to be a straight-to-DVD art house ‘hit’ out there featuring my left hand bemusedly clutching an espresso cup. Oh for such immortality.

Paid up (ouch) and left.”

Right, back to the retelling. I took more photos, then set out for the waterfront, past the Royal Palace on my way to take some dusk-lit pictures of a tall wooden sailing ship. All very wholesome and jolly digestive larks. And, as is my wont, I promptly blundered into a gaggle of four prostitutes. I had taken the wrong route to the sea, it seemed.

A double pincer movement was threatened this time. No real sense of an initial stand-off, more of an instantaneous “get him, or get his wallet – preferably just the latter” manoeuvre. However, once again, I wasn’t about to submit to any of the ‘charms’ on offer, despite being offered “hay goot time, yes?” as the encirclement continued.. these things happen so fast, particularly if you’re not quite used to being such an apparently tempting morsel of a whale-stuffed man.

Actually, for all the amusement of this re-telling of a mishap that ultimately turned out okay, I have to say it got a bit touch and go (fnaar, no, I can’t do anything seriously) for a moment. It doesn’t take much to be outnumbered and intimidated, as it turns out. Whilst I found nothing much to say, in that moment, beyond the usual “nothankyounothankyou”, I do recall thinking this might just be one of life’s hand over wallet and get away moments. One never knows what folk have in their handbags to defend themselves, or use on others. I had heard of men staying just off Las Ramblas in Barcelona taking quite effective kickings and being relieved of their valuables in not dissimilar circumstances.

But, as the wheel of life turned back to the more comic, it seemed footwear was on my side, on this occasion. My impromptu harem was all wearing heels roughly of the height of our dog. As much as that made them as intimidating as anything, it also rendered them a little unsteady on their collective plates. Add to that the cobblestoned street, in a rather well to do district of town, and I had the early sniff of an advantage.

Unashamedly, and for what we now read to be the second such occasion of my life, I broke into a virtue-saving run. Only this time it was a RUN. I was decked out in some manner of flat loafer (probably, all I can honestly remember is those bright red sirens’ spikes reverberating off flint), which carried me lightly across the ancient streets. I burst into a good lead pretty early on in the piece. I daresay had it been some manner of track-based 1,500m affair I would have had high hopes of lapping even the swiftest of them. Soon as I was a number of corners and streets away, and had no sense of any real pursuit, although I picked the route for my evening promenades rather more carefully after that night.

The effort of the escape meant my dinner hung rather heavy on me for a while, but I was soon returned to good order, and even found some light to do a little restful photography before traipsing home and turning in. Proof positive, I suppose, that exercise is good for you.

Next time, we turn to the matter of my New Years’ Resolution No. 3 (of 3) for 2015: To Try And Be Less Grumpy. So far, nine days in, this has been an enormous success, and I have only felt compelled to buy SWK one bunch of flowers to make up for any apparent darker shades of mood.

This will be a shorter piece. A little tour of my past instances of singular or joint irritability, whilst doing the thing I love. Travelling. See you soon.

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Being Frightened By Hookers: A Two Parter (the joys of being British and Running Away)

I was propositioned, last Monday night.

Went to a gig with my mate Simon, and was walking back to the tram stop, when a slightly weaving lady of about 35 or so, positioned next to a garden gate, called out to me asking if I could give her a light. “Sorry – don’t smoke”, I replied, cheerfully and entirely un-seductively. I was just about to make off again when she asked me if I wanted “any business?” Quick to embarrass in these situations, I politely declined and set off at a trot. “Wurnt mek it wirra fat lass, then?” she responded, angrily, to my departing back. Evidently I had slighted her most dreadfully. “I don’t really want to make it with anyone, at the moment” I replied, over my shoulder, and doubled my pace.

As bon mots go it wasn’t up to much, as a dignified exit manoeuvre. I have known better. In fact I can tell you I bore witness to it in 2001, in Prague, with my friend Nicholas. We had spent the evening making merry in the most amazing Blues and Gumbo/Creole food  joint I have ever been to. Red Hot And Blues, it was called, just off the Jewish Quarter. Sadly it is no more. Cracking evening.

As we weaved our way to the tram (ooh, a tram again, look), a young woman pulled up close behind us, with an edgy-looking fellow alongside her – evidently her pimp. Her tactic for attempting to draw Nicholas into some manner of paid-for congress was to continually tap him on the arse and say “we go?”, repeatedly.

This went on for some time, and he and I ignored her/them. After about the 300th tap and enquiry, my dear friend broke stride, turned ‘round and stopped them in their tracks. “No”, he said, in a most stentorian voice.. “YOU go”. And they did. Cool story.

So yes, prostitution, embarrassment (mine) and generally being a witless fool (again, me). I was reminded I had promised last time to write about these things, and Monday’s little scrape reminded me about it. I have two stories to tell you.

Back to the year 2010. And to Vienna, a city I really rather like, and will be returning to with the ever-lovely and tolerant SWK just next month.

This was a work trip, in fact, but not one the like of which I had been on before. Seemingly from nowhere, I had been given the full responsibility of getting 18 graduate students  to a Summer School at the quite prestigious Wirtschaftsuniversität Wien. The preamble to the thing had taken forever, frankly. They were all international students (and quite lovely, I have stayed friends with a number of them), so we endured an epic journey to London to get everyone a visa. Flight bookings, sending ‘round paperwork, figuring out who was going to stay with whom. Weeks of work, it was. I wasn’t in the best of form, having had a few of the students hole up at Gatwick with excessive baggage, and no bloody cash to pay for the balance owed. So, I was down about a ton already and wondering how I would word the expenses claim (I was forever out of pocket in that bloody job.)

Students wandered off, constantly. At times I was well down to single figures, searching Duty Free. However we finally, all of us, flew to Austria, and I managed to herd them all through the arrivals melee and out of some back entrance into the pouring rain. Eventually, after an absolute age, a man in a leather jacket appeared and I asked if I was Herr Cox. I confirmed I was, I gave him a large amount of Euros, and a fleet of black SUVs arrived. All rather cool, at least for a while.

We had agreed to travel to two halls of residence, in sequence. Empty one car of students, I’d see them onto the premises, then drop off the second lot at the further location, and take that car to my hotel. Simple.

No.

Fine, yes, we got to the first place, in what was now the gloom of 10.00pm on a hot and wet July night. I was sweating inside and drenched outside from standing waiting for the taxi guy. Taxis disgorged the requisite students, and I led them to the door and pulled the handle and… nothing. Not a sausage. Called the intercom. Nothing. Not a sausage. The rain it fell, and the taxis did wait. I tried calling numbers from my dossier of papers, but just got auto messages in German about how the nummer I had dialled was falsch. Belting evening I was having. I’d been up since 6.00am, and had survived on coffee, fags and air.

Finally, after what felt like hours, a student, American if I recall, appeared from off the street and opened the door with some sort of key. “Grab that door!” I shouted, startling her and my other international chums.. but it got us in. But not much further, as it turned out. Inside, lockers, a mop, a lift, and nothing else. No note, no indication about who was meeting us. Nothing.

I ordered the gang to stay put. They complied without a nanosecond’s hesitation – I suspect there was a certain wildness in my eyes at this point that suggested I was to be taken really quite seriously. I got in the lift, went up a floor and, well, started knocking on bedroom doors. This was actually my best tactic of the evening, and it got me through only two moves and one more trip in the lift to a lady called Meredith in no time. Meredith (tall girl, again American, with small round glasses, uncomfortably of a slightly Gestapo feel, given where we were) was stood there in her underwear, smoking, and gave me a pretty long look, but was on the whole quite phlegmatic about the whole affair. She showed some signs of having heard of both England, Sheffield, and late arriving students. “Sure, bring ‘em up” she said. I whizzed back downstairs, corralled the students (mixed gender group), and whispered in the ear of one of the boys “third floor, tall girl in her knickers, she’ll sort you out”. And fled into the night and back into the lead cab.

Driver was by now a bit frosty. This had taken some time, and we had another drop off to go. My mental map of where we were had started to fade, and I was really tired. However, soon we were there.

Second attempt went a bit better. Once again, we couldn’t get in, but some element of the amusement arcade of buzzers and bells at least freed the door for us, so we got out of the epic rain fairly swiftly. Various young folk were to be found inside. To a man and a woman they were drunk (the tail end of some sort of (ironic) welcome party, I think), and not terribly helpful. BUT, there on the noticeboard there was, yes, a note, and a number.  This time, I had the one European student call it, and in no little time another woman (fully and modestly clothed) appeared, and I was soon freed of my burden. My gang departed with her, and I departed to the rain and.. yep, the taxi had fucked off for the evening. Terrific stuff. I stood, soaked, in the street, and thought, well, at least the students are in the right places, with instructions for tomorrow. Job = safe.

However this did rather leave me a bit stymied. My soggy map was meaningless, and my phone dead. The only possible solution was to start walking. I remembered that there were innumerable railway stations in Vienna.  If I alighted upon one, or at least signs to it, I would be able to hit a cab rank and be thereby home free for my hotel booking. Off I went.

Nope. Nowhere land. May as well have been in some distant farming district. Street after street looked just as the last ones. I gained more water, more tiredness and more frustration. The city was silent. I started to think about the possibility of a late bar being open and being able to beg the staff to order me a cab, and then, suddenly, I found one!

My problems appeared to be at an end. I drew near to the reassuring neon beer sign. And at this point I got it all wrong. Three women stood at the door. As I drew up to them, hair plastered to my head with rain and clothes clinging to my ample frame, I remember thinking “crikey, these ladies are barely wearing a stitch, they must be mad”. Nope, that was just me and my inescapably foolish take on events.

“Hello ladies.. Wie komme ich am bestern zum Bahnhof?” I enquired, haltingly. There was a single beat and all three were upon me, with enquiries as to vot I vould like, Englischman. Even then, it took a moment to dawn on me what was actually going on, as hands started to reach to me. “I’m terribly tired, and new to Vienna”, I said. Like a royal fuckwit. Hands upon my person grew tighter and more eager. The reality of my situation dawned. I was indiscriminate, vulnerable new meat to the Viennese sex industry. And an unpromising cut thereof, the truth be known.  I have never wanted to go to bed with a prostitute (sounds sneering, sorry, I don’t have any issue with well-organised prostitution, compared to the rather grim alternative).. even if I had, this would not have been the night for it I would have chosen to, err, ‘break my duck’. I like to be wooed, after all.

None of the company was about to pull out a city guide. I stammered. I gulped. And I broke, unexpectedly, free. “Thanks, ladies, I’ll sort myself out” (innuendo abounded, that night), I said. And ran for it. Actually ran away (see the next post for my strategy next time around). I had a wheely case to my side and pulled it into my hand and ran like the wind. Ish. In reality, I waddled away like an exhausted, 18 stone, drenched dimwit ingénue would.

I turned right, left, right and right again. My lungs afire. I looked back and found no one craved me so much as to have broken the mini-skirted peloton. Thank fuck. Or, rather, not fuck. I looked forward, to find the Westbahnhof  facing me. Get. In.

I dove into the back of a cab. Horizontal, I was. Dead on my feet. Virtue intact. An interminable conversation followed about where I was going. Numbers pertained to districts, it seemed. In the end I just said “WU, WU, WU, bitte”. I handed over my remaining Euros and we pulled off (sorry).

20 minutes later, I was ej(acula)ected. To similar silence and indistinct locality. Concrete and darkness.  Hours had passed. I circled twice. Death appeared close. I took a chance and assumed the kindly middle-aged lady I bumped into would not prove to also be a prostitute. Mercifully not. A little frightened of the messy tourist, perhaps, but nothing more than that. “Yes..yes.. Ambassadors” she said. And did some pointing.

I followed. And so the hotel appeared. I checked in. I went upstairs. The two boiled sweets on my pillow formed an excellent dinner, and I passed out, fully clothed.

Part Two to follow. With added whalemeat and high heels. As you do.

Kayaking, or ‘My Search For A Short Engagement’

Time to bring us a bit more up to date, with my take on events from September of this year.

For accuracy, Saturday 20th September, as I was reminded the other night, when SWK remarked how it was already two months and more since we got back from our delightful Summer holiday in Dubrovnik (Croatia) and Kotor (Montenegro). It was indeed delightful, despite me being there for the entire time..

As ever with me, and particularly with tales of misadventure and misbehaviour, there is something of a back-story that needs filling-in, for context.

To go a bit further back in time, SWK had moved in with me back in the late Spring/early Summer. A delightful and exciting time for both of us. Emotionally very stirring, as we went about the practical business of getting her and the dog settled into new full-time quarters. Except they were not to be full-time right away, as she had managed to arrive at five weeks’ work down in Windsor, beginning almost at the moment the last box was unpacked. All very posh and very good for her indeed.

With a couple of visitations planned, including a quick whizz down to the Kent to visit my parents and the dog (who was Summering by the Sea; he always gets the best deal), I assumed the time would pass quickly and cheerfully enough. But, if ever I assume something, it’s a pretty safe bet to assume the opposite, frankly. As was the case here. I was, within three days of solo living, reduced to the state of a morose, lovelorn 14-year-old, only with less charisma, but better clothes. I was grumpy by text message, and even worse over the telephone, as it turns out that Windsor is some manner of blackout zone for modern mobile technology. I imagine that communications were, at least at times, probably clearer between the trenches and HQs of World War I. With every staccato conversation concluding in that beep-beep-beep-beep sound that went by, I grew more miserable and determined to visit whenever I could, to make up for it.

And so it was that I came to visit a sunny and delightful Windsor on each and every weekend. Lord alone knows what SWK must have thought about the prospect of my returning presence, as my morale and self- possession gradually nosedived through the working weeks, bereft of my lover and our dog (as I have pointed out before, I am a bit of a tit when it comes to not seeing the bigger picture). Anyway, she always greeted me with open arms, so despite everything I must have been doing something right, even if it was just getting a round in for her and other assorted thespian types on a Friday night. When lacking charm, apply a little money. Hmmm.

I think I reached a whole new nadir in our time together when we decided to take to the water, one bright and lovely Sunday afternoon. A little trip out on the river, before a spot of lunch. What could be better? Almost anything, it turned out.

The first error made was to save money by not hiring a little rowing boat with an outboard motor on the back, in favour instead of the gentle breezes, panama hats, blazers and floaty-dressed romance of rowing one another gently up and down the river for a while. Pah. Needless to say the first half of the trip was carried out with beautiful, smiling serenity by my all-time-favourite oarswoman, SWK. She had studied some manner of Nautical Higher, up in the wilds of Scotland, as a girl, and took to the whole thing with a natural confidence, and a smooth rhythm, even finding time to point out pretty things and elements of the flora and fauna, which I duly snapped with the ever-present camera.

Then it was my turn. The sun popped behind the clouds. A few water-fowl eyeballed one another and took off, and in the distance a church bell chimed a single warning. Even the ever-optimistic SWK decided it would be she who would “just get us back over the other side”, neatly negotiating the oncoming traffic, clearly having seen something in my shifting gait and wary eye as I prepared to reach for the controls.

And, yes, predictable enough, I was horrible at it. And didn’t everyone get to find out? When I wasn’t carving a zig-zag path into pontoons and passing boats, I was either gouging three feet down into the Thames with my oars in a frustrated attempt to gather speed and traction, or I was grazing the water lightly like one attempting a parmesan shaving. Soon the effort made me sweaty, and then shortly afterwards, as the hour for the return of the boat grew nigh, my childish propensity to anger with myself boiled over quite horridly. From the other end of the boat came sweet messages of loving support, dotted with advice, with the most helpfully gentle  and understanding delivery, about what we might be about to hit. I heard none of this. All I could do was gather up every negative moment of personal reflection I had ever had, and channel it into an attempt to somehow get the bloody boat back.

I’m afraid to say my language became quite colourful, as my resentment of myself and our predicament bubbled over. Alas, video survives, too. Ask SWK and she might show it to you. It isn’t, in truth, one for the kids. At one point in the piece, where SWK tries to assure me that there are other folk behind me presenting an even greater threat to shipping, I respond by telling her that they are NOT. That they are all rowing PERFECTLY, and that I am sat there “in a boat, in a hat, looking like a c*nt who writes letters for a living”. Charm personified, me.

It would have been much the better thing for everyone, and no court in the land would have convicted her of any crime, if SWK had simply pushed me in and left me to drown in my own resentment, there amongst the pretty reeds. But no, as she does every day, she stuck with it until land was sighted and the anchor weighed. The walk to the restaurant afterwards was marked with ever more elaborate forms of apology from me, at recurring intervals of about 15 seconds or so.  I felt like, and had been, an utter arse.

And so, we have established I am not terribly handy when it comes to the manipulation of water-borne craft.

Back to the Dalmatian coast, then? Exactly 73 days, to the delightful evening at Restaurant Dubrovnik, the terrace of which I would recommend to anyone, anytime. It was lovely. And made more so by the fact that that was the night where I asked SWK to marry me, and she (quite inexplicably) responded in the affirmative. She’ll be a long old time regretting that one…

It really was a fabulous night, I have to say. I’d done an amount of the spadework through the good offices of Trip Advisor, where one weeded out the greater displays of restaurateur madness. E-mails had followed to my finalised choice. Fizz and a corner table were secured, and on the evening itself the staff were just super-duper kind. In fact the manager accosted me when I went for a pee (this was in the Gents, for clarity – not a hostile arresting gesture because I was piddling in a plant pot, struck by nerves) to tell me he would “stop the terrace” if I wanted to go down on one knee in the middle of the whole place. I declined, and explained that I wanted to go for something ‘partially public’ and that this was part of classic British Reserve. In truth I don’t think he was that interested in my nervous commentary, and I might have been better to just shut up, but he gave us our desserts and coffees for free and took a nice picture of us on our way out, so no complaints there!

I nearly stuffed it up, by the way (just before we get to the actual kayaking bit). I’d mentally prepared what I wanted to say, and knew where the ring was, etc. It’s just there was always something going on with wine glasses or bread, or candles being lit, or SWK would launch into some extended anecdote so it would have been impolite to interrupt. We were debating dessert and I needed a wee again by the time I made a predatory leap around the edge of the table to whip out the sparkler and gush out the various sentiments in my heart. Needless to say this was just as a party of 23405676 Dubrovnikers were being seated behind me, largely female, and to a woman they all spotted what was going on, and there was a resultant soundtrack of excited squealing to my entire proposal.

Still, job done and all that. We weaved out to a bar for a couple of rather more lowbrow pints and some more photographs (once of which I took on my phone, and will add here, if the missus allows it) and then settled down for the night, looking forward to the kayaking trip we had booked for the following morning.

SWK Sept 2014

And the following morning dawned, and blow me, we still had to go kayaking. Nerves worried at my gut. The beautiful sunshine had, naturally, evaporated to be replaced by a slate grey sky, the like of which sits outside my window just now, during a late Autumn, East Midlands style. There was rain in the air. However, we had paid our deposit, we had gone to bed at really quite sensible o’clock, really quite sober(ish) and we were going.

I affected a light-hearted confidence. I had been told it was “easy” and “only” 10k – a distance I could run (alright, perhaps not on water), and what a wonderful way to start pre-marital life, in a tandem kayak, sliding around the beautiful coast as a loving unit. Yeah, it was going to be fine.

We got there on time. Our stuff all fitted in the waterproof barrel on the back of our sturdy-looking craft. The lifejackets fitted (I was nervous about that – in my head I am still about 18 stone, despite appearances being to the contrary). I could follow the instructions, and swing the paddle about in the way you were supposed to. We boarded the thing okay, and managed to manoeuvre our way across the rocky harbour with not a little elegance, featuring some steering the right way, with my beloved at the helm.

We were to be guided and to receive explanations as to what we were gawping at, in ‘rest’ periods (every  1000m or so, I suppose?) from a nice young fellow, with another chappie following up at the rear. They appeared agreeable enough, although they did observe that the weather “is not great, but okay”. 2/3 of the way round we would be stopping in a cave for lunch, swimming and photos etc.

Off we went, and things went, very rapidly, downhill. Within the first 150 metres we were dead last, dropping into a morning-long contest with a pair of Italian girls for Crappest At Kayaking In Europe. I attempted to ape SWK’s movements, as per instructions. All appeared, mechanically, just as smooth as it had been in the harbour, but progress was just soooo sloooow. The reason for this was not just the drag factor of the leaden buffoon in the bow (although I think we all have to concede that’s got to have been part of it), but the fact that the rain had started to sheet down, and we were now on the open sea, which had started to boil, roil and roll in a manner designed to capsize anything it could. Including us. At one point I looked up through my useless glasses to see, there in the distance, Noah, flicking the Vs at me, the bastard.

In fairness, we stuck with it like the rock solid couple we are. Not a hint of a cross word, although my familiar self-doubting self was just clearing his throat in the wings. The kayaks of our fellow tourists (they paid for under-boat motors – must have) were just starting to mass in the distance around our young guide. After a time, muscles aching, we pulled in alongside, only to hear something like “.. which is a really cool story! Okay, guys, on to the next stop then? Yeah? Cool.”

And they all just fucked off again. And, after a nice rest of their bronzed and supple limbs, at a greater pace than before. Gaaah. It wasn’t so much the prospect of the effort to be expended to close the gap that bothered me, it was the fact I was not learning a bloody thing about where we were or what there was to see. I started to verbalise these concerns, as only I will do at times like this, to my beloved. Lucky her – trying to steer an underpowered piece of plastic into a nautical gale, with the most crosspatch man in the world just out of reach of the paddle-slap he so very richly deserved, all the while ruefully eyeing her engagement ring, no doubt, as the future began to slowly unfurl itself to her.

The pattern continued to repeat itself. Paddle like your life depended on it for 20 minutes, arrive in a state of near-vomiting exhaustion, listen to 15 seconds of back slapping delightedness, cast a suspicious eye at the Italian girls and the back-marker flirting with them whilst smoking and jabbering on his mobile, and then set off again back into the maelstrom.

After at least 300 hours of this, we pulled up on the edge of the cave. Which was surrounded by a wall of foaming water, at which we had to hurl ourselves at full whack to give the chaps in there the remotest chance of pulling us onto the beach. Somehow this move was pulled off. Lord alone knows how, judging by the state of us when we emerged from the bloody kayak. Not one limb worked properly. Both of us wobbled and hobbled our way further into the safety of the cave, away from the rain and the swell.  I placed the possessions barrel on the cave floor, determined to try and take some photographs and salvage something from the experience.

I rose up from the barrel, turned, and tripped over a rock directly behind my feet, and fell face first into the sand. I was, as I had been back in the earlier Summer on the rather more placid Thames, rather less than a ray of sunshine about this. I lay there with a mouthful of sand and a quartet of burning arms and legs, freshly battered from the fall. I then launched forth a volley of adjectives to lend some colour to my experiences of kayaking to date. No one within earshot  would have been in any doubt as to the overall conclusions I had reached about the place of this sport in my life.

My guardian angel came to the rescue once again. I must do something for her, some day. She pulled me to my feet, gave me a little cuddle, promised we would never go kayaking again, and went off to source a sandwich and a glass of (oddly good, I remember, despite the suspiciously-large catering-sized bottle) white wine for us, from our tour ‘guide’. She even had him recount some of the information previously lost to us on the howling winds over the open water. Like a child, after a tantrum, my mood softened again. Inside, the kernel of guilt about how I lose my self-possession at times like this hardened just a little more. It’ll be tougher than a diamond, by the time I am an old man.

The fact remained, of course, that we still had roughly one third of this little jaunt to go. The clouds had certainly not parted, and the weather remained quite awful. Two things helped, though: 1) we were, inch by inch, going back to dry land, where I could gradually spend the rest of my life un-learning what I had experienced on the water this year and 2) we swapped seats. Initially, at least, we kept pace, although things got a little tense when a German lady lost control of her paddle (are they called paddles, by the way? I have already forgotten, which is probably a sign that 1), above, is working) and almost gouged out my right eye – missing me by a whisker. I felt SWK go quiet behind me, at that moment, probably featuring some sort of dreadful diplomatic incident. The fact that I kept my quite frayed temper in check at that point is one of the few positive testimonies to myself and my character that morning that I can give.

We were soon knackered again, and back into near last. However we both found something to celebrate in that TWO couples had brief periods of being towed by some speedboat (driven by yet another young chap who was all white teeth and rippling muscles), having become rather tired. A service we outright REFUSED to countenance. I’d sooner have swum for it, frankly. A victory for our faith in one another, and sheer determination not to be bested by the appalling conditions.

We returned, battered and bruised. SWK delighted, me mortified by poverty of mental resources, but happy enough still to be engaged to be married. Conversations about kayaking have been relatively few in number, since our return. A watered-down version will be replayed with friends, as a pre-dinner anecdote, but I think we both know we don’t want to relive it. Or more precisely to relive me reliving it. It was less than pretty. I am not a water baby. The holiday taught me I have almost forgotten how to swim, as well. Still, on we go, with adventures in Austria, Bulgaria, Greece and Turkey yet to be written.

For now, next time, I’d like to return to a couple of recent forays to Austria and Norway, made famous in my mind for not dissimilar turns of events..

Being Frightened By Hookers: A Two Parter (the joys of being British and Running Away)

Tagged

Into Belarus, with vodka, guns, dogs and sleeping on a bench. With too much disco.

Back to 2009. My then wife and I had scoped out a four-countries-in-ten-days trip through very eastern, Eastern Europe. Fly to Kiev, train overnight into Minsk, bus to Vilnius, bus to Riga (forever more to be sung, excitedly, a la Peggy Lee’s ‘Fever’). It really grabbed me as a holiday, and an exercise in map-grabbing,  as I planned to get to 40 countries visited at the point I turned 40 (actually, I got to 41 in the end – 50 by 50’s going to be a breeze – I should nab four more, next year).

Didn’t care for Kiev very much. Didn’t hate it, but didn’t take to it either. Unfriendly, difficult to navigate, expensive and it was so bloody hot that the underground was the only escape. By the way, watch yourself on the doooooowwwwwnnnnnnn escalators into the Kiev underground. They go down a long way (there were signs for Canberra, Brisbane and Auckland, honest there were) and they are very steep. Down escalators always give me the heebie jeebies. I’m so rugged.

There was a nice park, the view of the ‘tin tits’ statue (Rodina Mat) was cool, as were the catacombs and the Chernobyl Museum (just bung this lead apron and go and clear that up, will you? Oops, sorry, you’re all dead – the way the employees were treated and subsequently expired was horrific). We ate at a Georgian restaurant where I had a magnificent cheese pie.

For all that, I was not sad to leave. Sorry, Ukranians one and all, I am sure you are all lovely – oh, apart from your weightlifting team; they were a right pain in the arse on a flight out of Skopja – I shall save that sorry tale for another time, however). We scoped the massive train station, and headed for the supermarket in search of a picnic for our overnight sleeper train into Belarus.

Belarus. I was very excited about this one. Always am, when you need a VISA to get into a country. Always feels a bit James Bond, to me, in a very safe, paperworky way. As if you’ve got some sort of cover story to get you behind enemy lines, somehow? Not for the first time, it’s probably just me.

Not just the lure of bureaucracy, and form filling though. No, I was all over the notion of Minsk, Gorky Park, and all that post-Soviet MASSIVENESS. Dead excited. Even the incredibly rude and dismissive guide book to the city wouldn’t have put me off. And it really was an extraordinary document, written by a man who’d been to the place a zillion times and yet seemed, by his tone, to hate it. He had the sort of offhand and patronising delivery of the two big green aliens in The Simpsons: Kang and Kotos. He also sounded a number of warnings about crossing the borders into the country, but by then I was cross with him and blithely ignored whatever points he had to make. Which, looking back, was an error. As we shall see.

As ever, I digress. Bags went into the left luggage and we shuffled off to a supermarket. Subterranean, wholly scripted in the Cyrillic alphabet, and confusing as all get out. It’s all very well being able to recognise turnips and raw meat, but that ain’t stuff you can scoff in a sleeper cabin. It took some time to lay our hands on the immediately edible, but it was good stuff; anchovies, cured meat, olives, a bit of this, that and the other. A crucial feature in our (very reasonable) shop was a bottle of Ukrainian vodka.  Following our first anniversary trip to Tallinn, some time back, and a very memorable evening in a Russian restaurant (must write that up, one day – oh the perils of a menu where the lines between descriptions and prices don’t quite line up right), I had come to learn something from my wife’s appreciation of vodka. A night of salty snacks and local smooth-as-silk vodka had a lot of promise, as we rolled our way to the border. Most exciting.

And so, back to the station, for only my second overnight train experience. Years earlier, my old chum Nicholas and I had made the trip from Prague to Warsaw, on a sleeper. A trip made memorable by the light bulb above our bunks that could not be extinguished, at least until the obliging and luxuriantly moustachioed guard grabbed it through his handkerchief and wrenched it, with a scream, from its housing, as it burned his wrist. Bless him.

We found our ‘first class’ bunk in no time. Lockable easily enough, teensy sink, and a couple of parallel sofas/beds. Not the final word in luxury, but amongst other things it seemed a secure enough unit, so the chances of anyone pumping in knockout gas (whatever that actually is) and harvesting our organs as we slept, seemed low. Kang/Kotos seemed to be suggesting that the inadvertent donation of a kidney was pretty much obligatory.. but what did he know, eh?

We set out to explore. It wasn’t the most executive train. Every gap between carriages featured groups of folk smoking at a feverish rate. Kiev had given us the impression that smoking was pretty much compulsory. Not an issue, given we were both smokers at the time, but the stipulation that the cabins should be smokeless was rendered pretty much pointless as the whole snaking, clanking beast reeked of knock-off Gitanes.

And so to the buffet car. A Spartan affair. Amongst other deficiencies, there were no tables. On the plus side, courtesy of the extremely friendly staff, a bottle of ice-cold Baltika was about £1.50. Take it, head for the nearby gap between cabins with it, and drink alongside ciggies at £1 per packet. Repeat three times, enjoying your experience, and then reel off to your cabin. No worries.

By now it was about 10.30pm. We fell upon our food, and very lovely it was too. There was a certain amount of sipping of vodka, but, in fairness, it was at room temperature so we did not get carried away immediately. It complimented the salty food very nicely. And before we knew it, the train halted and Ukrainian border police were aboard, checking our passports and generally bidding us an agreeable farewell.

And so to the problems. Looking back, they were not unadjacent to a tipping point in the consumption of the vodka. We weren’t ingénues in the world of alcohol consumption, exactly, but these celebratory moments can and will catch up on you. If I remember right, we did take the passage through the Ukranian border rather enthusiastically. And the gap before the point of entry to Belarus was, fully, an hour. More than enough time to nip away at the supplies, and so to be less than coherent.

The train stopped. There was some manner of announcement. In Russian, alone. And then, evidently, a number of fellows boarded the train. With, as it turned out, a series of massive dogs, laptops and, to a man, big fuck off guns. At least those appeared to be the standard accoutrements, once they arrived chez nous. Rarely does one sober up so much, as the knock at the door comes and such things are exhibited.

You hope, at times like these, that the whole thing will be dealt with at the door. No such luck, our boy, his chum, their canine, firearms and all that appeared and made themselves very comfortable indeed. A period of my life I would cheerfully have back. We’d only had our visas imprinted on our passports a day before we left the UK – a real rush job. We were, it’s fair to say, a trifle Brahms, and the questions were searching. It was quite clear that our documentation was not going to pass muster. And all the questions were directed to me. Looking back it annoyed the crap out of me that my wife, a woman of far greater intellectual and general acumen than me, was never addressed during the process. She was considered little more than luggage, and luggage I should speak for. All manner of documents were re-addressed, and all of them via me. A charming experience, but it was, in the end, done.

Phew. Sort of. Final signatures were eventually gathered and the guns, dogs, and bureaucrats departed our cabin. I drank more, drew breath, congratulated herself on not having grabbed a gun and gone postal in the face of such rampant misogyny, passed into sleep.

Next thing you know? Well, yep, you guessed it. “Minsk, this is Minsk, get up you bastards this is Minsk”. 6.30am on a Sunday morning in Minsk. Ow. Never, ever, have I re-packed a bag so quickly. Oh so very quickly. We staggered onto the platform inside three minutes.

As hangovers go, it was oddly clean. That feeling of still being a bit ‘wobbly dog’, but super-aware? No hope, it turned out, of gathering local currency, but we levelled out a bit with credit-card-purchased fizzy pop and coffee. Theory went that we would head to our accommodation for 9.00am, so we hit the underground in the general direction. Found it oddly quickly, as I remember. Barely alive through exhaustion, after a few mere hours of disco sleep, but there we are, and there we were. Reached for the phone to call the guy we’d booked the apartment from and.. nothing.  Left a voicemail, thinking all would be well after a while. A stroll followed. Then, eventually, breakfast, Belarusian style.  Everywhere, people wandered around with highly elaborate cakes, which was a very Sunday thing, it turned out.

Back to the supposed chez nous. Another call, another ansaphone message from me. Another zero. And here comes my poorest admission from this little foray. There was a park behind our supposed gaff. There we went, to pause for breath. Seats surrounded a play park, and there we settled in. And there, with my little canvass bag behind my head, on the naked park bench, I inevitably succumbed to sleep, and began, as a much heavier man back then, to snore in a way I can only imagine would have reverberated quite powerfully off the walls of the surrounding apartment blocks. Two hours later, my ex-wife woke me, to tell me everyone, children included, had left. Evidently I had not, in sleep,  cut the most agreeable figure, even as a former teacher. More so, I had cut the figure of a ‘tired’ reprobate. Hair rather wild, dribble in some quantity. Charmed, I was, at my behaviour. I had entered Belarus as a blundering, vodka-addled drunk, sleeping on park benches. Terrific. All going well. On the plus side, the armed police had not reappeared to move us on, or ship us off to somewhere nasty. A narrow escape. More water with it, next time.

Another phone call, and, finally, a miracle. Our man was, at last, awake. Tired (boo hoo, poor you, I’ve had guns pointing at me and just fell asleep in a park – get up, you last bastard – were the words I did not say) but on his way, he assured us. We fought our way into a local convenience to evacuate (I had to beg, beg, being without readies). And we waited. Forever.  And yet, in the end, our man appeared and, to our surprise, whisked us away in his motor. He was quite a rough chap, but not without a certain charisma. We weren’t immediately clear what was going on, as we zig-zagged away from where we had been stationed.

We had been very clear, after so many hours, of where we were going. We’d even sussed out where we thought the apartment was within the block we sat outside. But no, we were told by our new landlord that the previous occupant of our gaff, had had “too much disco” (an expression I have quite shamelessly passed off as my own on a number of occasions since then, for I adore it), missing his flight in the process. As such we found ourselves delayed by the fact he was sleeping it off upstairs, whilst we (alright, I) slept it off in the park in such charming dereliction. Our boy behind the wheel had been making some calls, when he was awake, trying to frantically source an alternative.

As we pulled up next to a bin store, he assured us that the all new place was “very nice – much better then old apartment – you will like”.  Head rather clearer now, it seemed foolish to argue with him – he was a cheerful soul, but I rather thought, were his mood to darken, that he would be quite capable of snapping us like twigs.

And in any case he was not lying. There were innumerable locks to get through, in a sequence we were never quite to learn properly, and our front door appeared to be padded several inches thick, which I rather feared was to stop gunfire making it though. He was keen that we should lock the door at all times, irrespective of what side of it we found ourselves. Gulp.

Having had not insufficient disco ourselves, we bade him farewell and slept.

A wonderful three days followed. Minsk was ace. I’ll never forget three off-duty soldiers (what is it with me and soldiers?) whom did everything together. One about 6 foot 8, another about 6 foot, the other about 5 foot 4. All in a line, at all times. Buying an ice cream, going on the big wheel in Gorky park, they were utterly inseparable, comedy gold, and our constant shadow.

At other times, England won the Ashes back at The Oval (many a text between Mother and I), which we toasted, now feeling up to drinking again, with Belarusian champagne.. which is disgusting. We walked almost into Lithuania in pursuit of a much-recommended Chinese restaurant. Guide book, torch, utter confusion, a few embittered words.. I seem to recall getting there at about 11.00pm. Not a problem to the owners, but it’s rather foolish to fall upon the spiciest hot and sour soup you have ever tasted with quite such wolfish enthusiasm. My lips burned for two days.

And that, dear readers, is how we arrived in Minsk.

Come back next time for a shorter, but hopefully entertaining piece on my recent experience of kayaking. It did not, as you can imagine, go particularly smoothly. It speaks volumes for the calm approach to life taken by the lovely SWK, however, just as it reveals what an unstoppable git I am. Happy days!

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